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Routes in Division Wall

T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
39 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Abyss, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Atheist, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baghdad S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blurred Vision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep End S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Division S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Isotoner Moaner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kiddie Pool S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Les is More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid Oxygen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Litmus Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Multiplication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nowhere to Go S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Physical Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quicklime Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rush Hour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Weapon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shallow Beginning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shark Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Struggling Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teenagers in Heat S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Recall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Brian Smoot and Les Ellison
Page Views: 1,525 total, 12/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Nov 12, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This climb is straight forward pocket hunting till you get to the dihedral. You clip the last bolt then you discover a weird stemming awkward move with crimps and underclings to the chains. I recommend falling there, it's very exhilarating.

Location

This is directly right of Les is More (.10a dihedral). Or the 5th climb from the right

Protection

Seven bolts to chain anchor.

Photos

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Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11a
This is the perfect route for the 5.10 climber trying to break into the 5.11 level.

1st bolt - 4th bolt: .10a pocket pulling to a no-hands-rest ledge
5th bolt: clip 5th bolt/shake out on ledge/chalk up
5th bolt - 6th bolt: .10b/pockets thin out/excellent climbing
6th bolt - 7th bolt: .10+/enter dihedral and crux sequence/stem your feet
7th bolt - chains: .11a/continue up dihedral/keep stemming and trust feet/chains in excellent condition!

Everyone is giving it a 5.11a, but this route can be sent & enjoyed by all 5.10 climbers (see also Remote Control). The top has long but safe whipper potential. May 7, 2012
Dan Zobell
Springville UT
  5.11a
Dan Zobell   Springville UT
  5.11a
I have to say I like Perins description of the route while I was attempting the onsight,, "It has pockets,,, And then it changes.." but once you figure out the sequence, and keep it together enough for the last two bolts, it actually seems easy.. Oct 18, 2010
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11a
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11a
This is a really fun climb due to the pucker factor at the top. I don't know what sequence everyone is referring to but mine involves staying out of the crack until the very last move or two. I am just breaking into being able to send 5.11 and I am not going to say this is easy but given the fact that I still can't do DEEP END, I am questioning the rating a little bit. I am a little taller so that may be an advantage. I am not going to complain though it is one more .11a under the belt. In short, this is well worth doing. Jun 25, 2009
An inobvious sequence at the top.
Falling out of the dihedral isn't it. Jun 17, 2009
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.11a
It does have a very specific sequence and its very fun once you figure it out! :) Sep 22, 2008
Robert MacKinnon
  5.11a/b
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.11a/b
To me it felt like very enjoyable pocket-pulling at 5.10 a/b up to the last bolt followed by a difficult/awkward finish that felt very hard for 11a. Maybe it just has a very specific sequence that none of us could figure out (?). Jun 4, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Hah, I remember this one! What a bizarre finish. I honestly didn't think I was going to get to the top. A trip to division wall isn't complete without sandbagging somebody into doing this thing. (So far I've only been on the receiving end of the sandbagging, but I'm looking forward to turning the tables) Nov 14, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
This is probably the climb at Division that sees the most whippers. The climbing is typical pocket pulling up to the last bolt and then the horror show begins. Nov 12, 2007