Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 7,095 total · 55/month
Shared By: sfotex on Jul 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


149 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Great route - some hard moves between good pockets with the best at the end!

Location

Route left of The Abyss.

Protection

5 bolts/chains.

Photos

Absoulutely incredible! You will feel like a million bucks after a send of this baby! Middle section was the toughest for me with the end just a mater of keeping it together when I was pumped. Jul 14, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.12a
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.12a
My first 12 lead so holy awesome. Just really fun to dyno to big holds and having to bite down that painful two finger pocket. Definitely tests you the whole way to the chains. Almost blew it up there.

After talking to an old timer, I guess a few big holds have fallen off of this making it harder than 12a? Food for thought. Jul 26, 2008
WasatchChic
Salt Lake, Utah
 
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
 
Uber classic! Aug 6, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.12a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.12a
Probably still .12a but bouldery as hell, so I'd give it a hard .12a The crux is definitely the middle section and involves BIG moves on some really shitty holds, with the occasional bomber pocket. I agree with crisco that the last bit is nothing more than keeping it together, just don't blow it at the chains or you're in for a moderate fall. Find your feet quick cause your hands won't last long, keep moving til the chains are clipped! This one is getting a little slick. Jul 18, 2009
GoSharks
CA
  5.12a
GoSharks   CA
  5.12a
With the right beta, this climb is 12a or even easier than that. Oct 18, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Coming from a guy who flashes V7...actually I agree though...handbag. Is this or Naked Nebula the easiest "12a" in the canyon? Oct 18, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12a
Each hold was bigger than I expected for such a bouldery route, long pulls between holds though. I would say solid 12a once you know the sequence. Jan 27, 2011
DTM
DTM  
Soft. Use the mono for some fun. Sep 9, 2011
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
I'm sad to take this climb off my wish list. I've been on it twice over the last few years. Both times I've injured a finger. Tendon sprains that took me out for months. For some reason this climb is too strenuous for my old fingers. Jul 22, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Bad Sock - I took that fall from the finishing jug just below the chains. Not a bad fall at all really though a massive bummer I was that close to sending! Aug 12, 2012
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
 
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
 
there isn't a utah 12 that DTM doesn't think is soft , this is a solid grade holding 12a awsome route as well, go get on harder rt's bro Aug 27, 2012
Leify Guy
  5.12a
Leify Guy  
  5.12a
definitely not soft... I'd call it 12a using the ledge to left and the double jug out left, and call it a 12a/b for the direct route that involves a gaston mono... I definitely recommend the direct route, DTM is spot on with the added fun of using it! May 4, 2014
a.l.
 
a.l.  
 
Super fun and a good entry level 12a for AF. Climbing it directly is 12a-moving out either direction is softer. If it feels harder than 12a at the crux, you're missing something-feel around, it's all there. Jul 15, 2015