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Routes in Division Wall

39 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Abyss, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Atheist, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baghdad S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blurred Vision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep End S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Division S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Isotoner Moaner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kiddie Pool S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Les is More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid Nitrogen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liquid Oxygen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Litmus Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Multiplication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nowhere to Go S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Physical Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quicklime Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remote Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rush Hour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Weapon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shallow Beginning S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shark Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Struggling Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teenagers in Heat S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Recall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Suburban climbing at its highest level of expression unfolds at Division Wall. Convenient, crowded on the weekends, zip for approach, well-constructed, half-rope climbs on killer limestone all await the hike averse. If you like sleeping in after a long day at the crags, this is the place to be.

Division Wall actually has upper and lower sections, but why hike to higher ground when you can have 25 to 30 routes to choose between by staying close to camp? Division Wall has warm-up routes in abundance, a slew of 5.11, 5.12, and a bit of 5.13. The rock has cleaned up with use, some friable edges seem always to pop off here, and on our last visit did not seem too greasy.

If you come to AF, you cannot miss the Division Wall classics like Liquid Oxygen, Isotoner Moaner, Division, Teenagers in Heat, and on and on. Just do it.

Getting There

Drive 1.3 miles up from TCNM to the Little Mill campground. Arrive on Friday night and you are likely to find a camp site, but never on Saturday. The Division Wall is right behind campsite 64.

Alert

The Little Mill Campground hosts have asked that climbers slow down and observe the speed limit in the campground (10mph). Apparently there have been several close calls with speeding vehicles and small children in the campground.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Division Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 197
Physical Therapy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 147
Les is More
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 114
Teenagers in Heat
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 56
Kiddie Pool
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 143
Remote Control
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 193
Deep End
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Pocket Change
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 85
The Atheist
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 100
Rush Hour
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 69
39
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 57
Shallow Beginning
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 114
Litmus Test
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 97
Division
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 149
Liquid Oxygen
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 92
Isotoner Moaner
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Physical Therapy
 197
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Les is More
 147
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Teenagers in Heat
 114
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Kiddie Pool
 56
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Remote Control
 143
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Deep End
 193
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pocket Change
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Atheist
 85
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rush Hour
 100
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
39
 69
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shallow Beginning
 57
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Litmus Test
 114
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Division
 97
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Liquid Oxygen
 149
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Isotoner Moaner
 92
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Heads up! The belay area at the Division Wall in American Fork will be undergoing a makeover starting July 31st till the SLCA Adopt a Crag Day on August 2nd. Most of the work will occur on the North side of Division Wall and will be closed for climbing. We hope to see you at the August 2nd Adopt a Crag to help improve this crag. Please sign up to volunteer at: saltlakeclimbers.org/event-…

Jul 26, 2014
JFM
JFM  
Was at Division Wall today-- the campsite numbering looks to have changed at some point-- there didn't appear to be a #64. Instead, park next to the vault toilets just before the wheel-spike exit and walk forward. Alternately, park just outside the L.M. campground exit and walk in...

The belay areas looked awesome today, 8/4/14, thanks to the SLCA. Thanks! Aug 4, 2014

The SLCA and Access Fund Conservation Crew started to stabilize the staging area at the Division Wall last year. We need your help to finish this project this year August 1st, 2015. Please SIGN UP for the Adopt a Crag HERE. saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-… Jul 17, 2015
As of 9/2/2015 the re-bolting of the Division Wall is complete! This has been the pilot project for the SLCA's Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative (WARI), funded through Salt Lake Climbers Alliance memberships and fundraising with additional help from a generous Petzl Foundation grant; a forerunner of the Access Fund's Climbing Conservation Grant Program.

Thanks to everyone that has volunteered and for the patience and support of the climbers we encountered at Division. Special thanks to John Ross for his commitment to the project as well as his garage-tech, slide hammer method for removing the sleeves and cones of the ubiquitous, Rawl 5-piece bolts. This helped us reuse the majority of the old holes. Climbtech's Wave bolts were invaluable as the best available anchor system for the sometimes wet and/or chossy limestone.

As a reminder, the agreement with the Forest Service, documented in the Ruckman guide, specifies:"...No new routes in Little Mill Campground; Quickdraws cannot be left overnight on any route in Little Mill Campground..." The community has done a great job of adhering to these conditions for the most part, and the FS has reciprocated support of climbing activities by providing day use parking and financing the ongoing stabilization of staging areas. Let's keep up the good work, and if you want your 2 draws back from the Abyss, contact the SLCA.

Here's some more info on the project:

- 182 out of 205 bolts were replaced over the course of 9 work days.

- On-site volunteers contributed over 150 hours to the project.

- Training and oversight was provided by the SLCA.

- Existing stainless steel bolts from past re-bolting efforts were generally left in place.

- Wave bolts made up 95% of the bolts placed.

- Anchor sets consist of 316 SS, 5/16" quick links, between the 316 SS Wave bolts and high-test, plated- steel, 3/8" chain painted with a self-etching primer.

- Over 80% of the old holes were re-used with exceptions due to: sheering or stripping of old bolt heads while attempting to unscrew corroded studs from the sleeves/cones or improved micro-sighting of an anchor within a couple of feet from the old location.

- Three, high traffic, moderate routes saw more significant changes. Brian Smoot suggested that adding one bolt to the sum total was an acceptable compromise in addressing safety concerns specific to Black Hole, Physical Therapy, and Teenagers in Heat.

- Un-embedded Fixe adhesive bolts that had come loose were pulled and re-installed on Deep End.

It’s been a great first project for WARI. We’ve been able to implement methodologies that can be applied across the various limestone climbing areas in the Wasatch. Division definitely had some of the oldest bolts (25 years+), but the clock is ticking on a growing backlog. We’ll be moving on to other crags in American Fork canyon and elsewhere, expanding the initiative as we go.


John Ross Photo Sep 13, 2015
VOLUNTEERS NEEDED
DIVISION WALL, AMERICAN FORK CANYON ADOPT A CRAG
JULY 16th, 2016
What: Help the SLCA and the Forest Service finish the staging area at the Division Wall. Bring water and snacks. Long pants, close-toed shoes, helmets, gloves, sun protection and sunglasses are required. The SLCA has extra gloves, helmets, and eye protection. Expect heavy lifting and physical work.
An Adopt a Crag is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis. It is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for our climbing areas in order to keep them open. Climbing is a privilege and not a right. Give back to your crag and volunteer with us today.
When: 9am-2pm
Where: Meet at the Division Wall. Consider car-pooling from Salt Lake or before the tollbooth in American Fork. Drive 1.3 miles up from Timpanogos Cave to the Little Mill campground to find the Division Wall.
REGISTER HERE saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-…
Jul 3, 2016

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