Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 2,904 total · 21/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Oct 14, 2007 with updates from John Ross
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


114 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Solid 5.10 climbing directly up the face gives way to a nice resting stance. Shake out, and pull a series of gnarly moves to get over the left part of the well-protected roof.

Protection

7 bolts and a 2-bolt chained anchor

Location

On the north face of Division, just to the right of Physical Therapy and Teenagers in Heat. The first bolted line right of the tree.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11c
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11c
2 distinct sections. the first section goes 11a, then you get a rest then get psyched pulling the roof. commit to crimpers and try to find some good feet - its a nice boulder problem. exhilerating. you can breath at the top. Nov 11, 2007
WasatchChic
Salt Lake, Utah
 
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
 
Good first 11c as there is one small crux section. Aug 6, 2008
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Very fun climb on a beautiful line. Committing to small crimps at the roof is the trick, until you can find decent feet. Jul 26, 2011
Ryan is right. If you find the feet right for the roof moves it's not that bad. Psyched to onsite this baby back in the day. Apr 19, 2013
Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
  5.11c
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
  5.11c
I had a hard time finding what was 11c about this route. I give it 11b at best, more like 11a. That roof is a BLAST to pull, and yes, very well protected. If someone is looking for an 11c first tick, this is the route to do it on. Sep 9, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Logan- sometimes routes are graded based on endurance, and other times power, and sometimes both. If a route's crux is a well defined boulder problem with relatively easy climbing otherwise, it receives a difficulty grade based on it's boulder problem and is then converted to a route grade. Here is the basic conversion: V1=11a. V2=11b. V3=11c. V4=12a/b. V5=12c. V6=12d. V7=13a. V8=13b. V9=13c/d. V10=14a. V11=14b. V12=14c. Etc...

These "routes with a boulder problem" are the easiest ticks at their grades for most modern climbers who are far more powerful on average and with comparatively poorer endurance than climbers were 15-20 years ago.

It's still technically 11c, but yes, it will "feel" easier to redpoint than let's say... Liscense to thrill 11c because The later has easier boulder sections but its quite a bit more involved. The overall output of effort will feel easier for most these days than Litmus Test. However if someone can boulder V2 and not V3 they could still redpoint Liscense, but not Litmus.

I could also write an explanation of how endurance modifies route grades.

If it seems confusing, it is. It is an imperfect system and most people don't understand it. It's made even more confusing by numerous "local areas" where the grading scale is suppressed or fluffed- this really skews the perception of the folks that learn in these areas, and this then spills over to other areas and mucks things up even more. Sep 10, 2017
Jeremy Lubkin
Worldwide Wanderer
  5.11c
Jeremy Lubkin   Worldwide Wanderer
  5.11c
New mussy hooks courtesy of ASCA. 3-star route all day long! Sep 16, 2017