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Black Hole

5.10a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 325 votes
FA: Brian Smoot
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Division Wall
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Black Hole is located on Division Wall's north face, just a few feet to the right of an obvious offwidth crack. The short, fingery crux is located between the second and third bolts, followed by highway cruising on large pockets and edges. All clips can be made from bomber stances, making this route a reasonable choice for aspiring 5.10 leaders.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perin climbing [[105741698]] 5.10a.
[Hide Photo] Perin climbing Black Hole 5.10a.
Robert MacKinnon leading Black Hole
[Hide Photo] Robert MacKinnon leading Black Hole

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] in contention for A.F.'s greasiest route Jul 22, 2005
[Hide Comment] Ken are you kidding? I think you like to hear yourself arugue. That route is SO greasy, are YOU sure you are talking about the same climb? Jul 29, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] How do you equate my opinion that the route didn't feel greasy with arguing? The crimps at the crux are nice and crisp, and the big holds above aren't bad at all. And, yes, I am talking about the correct route. Sep 20, 2007
Robert MacKinnon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Although I only gave it one star, I didn't think it was very greasy compared to other 5.10's at American Fork. Jun 4, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Getting greasier, but still a good route. The bolts are a bit spaced towards the top. Sep 22, 2008
[Hide Comment] I loved it but compared to some ratings in big cottonwood I think its a 5.9+ ten is stretching it and IM a 5.10 climber , but it is very greasy. Jun 23, 2009
Andrew Seegmiller
Orem UT
 
[Hide Comment] I thought this climb was ok. the bolts were a little sketchy the closer and closer to the top you got. and wheen climbing the bottom on a lead, i felt like if i fell i was going to bounce off the basically stair sized ledges below me. each ledge is about 12 inches wide. other then the kind of shity bolting i thought it was a pretty fun climb, lots and lots of false chalk on thius climb. get to the top and look down Jan 2, 2010
BJB
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure what all the hate is about. Sure some of the footholds were greasy, but I didn't feel like they were much worse than a lot of other AF routes. I thought the moves were really reachy and fun to great pockets. The foot work was trick as I tried to avoid the crappy, slick feet. For what its worth, I and everyone who did the route in our group had a really fun time with it. Jun 1, 2012
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun, interesting 5.10a. The 5.10 climber should be aware of ledges and climb with caution. Jul 12, 2012
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Haha, anyone who complains about the bolt spacing on this needs to climb up LCC. Aug 3, 2012
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Recently retrobolted, this climb is now totally G rated Aug 6, 2015
Brad King
Provo
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Bolts seemed close together to me. Must have been re-bolted like someone said. 5.10a is fairly generous but I'm OK with it. Crux may seem blank to people but there are good holds waiting for those who reach. Jul 14, 2019
James Russell
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] I imagine this would have been a great route back in the day but it's very very greasy now. Some of the holds were like edging on glass. May 17, 2020
[Hide Comment] Not the funnest climb honestly - last bolt before chains is crazy run out, I heard a hold was recently broken off in that same section of the climb that makes it very hard. Went further right toward Physical Therapy to make the last section work for 5 or so feet, then back to the nature bolt line Will try again, but not itching to get back on it anytime soon. Aug 6, 2020
Ryan Donahue
Rochester, MN
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Good holds the whole way. A little crux at the 3rd bolt. A good 10a. Sep 25, 2022