Type: Sport, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Conrad Anker and Doug Heinrich
Page Views: 1,825 total · 14/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

There are two distinct sections on this climb: The first bit is superb jug hauling starting with a slight traverse (.10d).

To complete the .12a, don't clip the anchor bolts under the roof, instead clip the lead bolt to the right or the anchor and continue up. You get a no hands rest at the roof. Then the business starts; it's an overhanging, crimpy problem to some better holds up higher. The climb has some cool vertical fins, not unlike shark fins.

Location

This starts right of Litmus Test, i.e., the second bolted line right of the tree on the north side of Division.

Protection

10 bolts to chains. You'll need 12 draws.

Photos

Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
 
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
 
Between the second and third bolts there is a solid thread that takes the bite off the scary, and possibly dangerous, traverse. It might be nice to have a shoulder length runner for this route. Jun 10, 2015