Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Les Ellison and Brian Smoot
Page Views: 2,825 total · 20/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


147 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A reasonably fun route with jugs, pockets, and stemming. Climb 8 or 9 feet to a ledge, clipping a bolt just below the lip of the ledge. Continue up on pockets and edges until after the sixth bolt; move left and stem in a dihedral to the top.

The hard part for me was after the fourth bolt. Two-finger pockets, an insecure sidepull and a difficult-to-commit-to, reachy move to the next bomber pocket.

Location

On the west face of Division Wall, this route is to the right of the obvious dihedral. It starts below a ledge about 8 or 9 feet up; the first bolt is just below the lip of the ledge.

Protection

7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Robert MacKinnon
  5.10a
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.10a
Great pockets on nice limestone! Jun 4, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
  5.10a
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
  5.10a
this is a really good 10a. one of the best at the grade ive encountered. Jul 24, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Don't forget to jam and stem at the top else its a bit harder! Sep 22, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10a
Decided against stemming to keep it interesting, which made it quite a bit harder, especially since the rock is fairly polished on the face. A good division warmup, but nothing special. Jun 21, 2009
jzp
Pleasant Grove
 
jzp   Pleasant Grove
 
be careful on those two deep pockets in the middle of the climb, i was using the one on the right as a deep under-cling with my torso above the hold, my foot slipped on the polished face and i almost broke my wrist Jun 12, 2012
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
Really fun. Lots of diversity with uncommonly deep pockets, stemming, and some unique hand jamming at the top. I thought it was pretty hard to be a 10a, maybe we were doing it wrong. Jul 17, 2012
I've lost track how many times I've done this one as a warm up... Apr 19, 2013
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Two options exist for the crux at the 4th bolt.
Skirt left for 10a, or head right for the harder version. Nov 20, 2014
apross  
and I bet you went left:-) Nov 20, 2014
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Was that some sort of political joke? ;) Nov 21, 2014
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, UT
 
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, UT
 
Hitting the crux head on is really fun, and has perfect two finger pockets. Nov 29, 2016