Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass and Eric Stroud
Page Views: 1,324 total · 10/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

The first crux is at the first semi blank section and very fun. The last blank section to the top is the REAL crux. You get a huge rest then clip the last bolt then you get to do a v3-v4 boulder problem to a sloper. Very cool.

Location

4th route from the right.

Protection

6 bolts to chains. Well protected.

Photos

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Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11d
Surprisingly cool route!! It's definitely a solid 5.11 but not a stout .11d by any means:

- High 1st bolt but easy climbing (easy 5.10 climbing)
- 1st to 2nd bolt: deep slot pockets that are bomber
- 2nd to 3rd bolt: first crux (.11c/d) section with a sick sequence!
- 3rd to 4th bolt: delicate climbing that eases up as you mantle the shelf
- 4th to 5th bolt: excellent holds that lead to a nice left-facing, crescent-shaped sidepull
- 5th bolt: Pumped? No worries, down climb to shelf to shake out!
- 5th to 6th bolt: second crux (.11d), "blank" section, positive crimps, throw right to sloping "rail-type" hold just below the 6th bolt and match
- 6th bolt to chains: clip 6th bolt quickly, high feet, throw for second shelf, mantle, clip chains.

Felt just a tad softer than Division 5.11d but only because it has a shelf to rest on. Clean route & now all chalked up for y'all! May 12, 2012
user id
SMOGden, UT
user id   SMOGden, UT
thanks for the spray by spray, i mean play by play. May 12, 2012