Type: Sport
FA: Boone Speed, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,877 total · 11/month
Shared By: Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Easy climbing (sporty at one point...so don't be overly cavalier) on jugs leads to a bulge with small holds on nice rock. This is the crux. Some odd crablike climbing gets you back to the left and the chains of Running Woman.

Someone added a bolt up and right from the crux, so you can cross onto Division.

Protection

6 bolts, chain anchors.

Location

This route is on the west face of the crag and located one route left of Division (5.12a).

This line shares the first bolt with Division and the first three bolts with Running Woman (.11a). Someone put in a two-bolt direct start of dubious quality for this route...do the original and don't get confused.

Photos

James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
I tried this climb for the first time last week. Granted it was at the end of the day, and I had done several other 11's (including two laps on division) before.... I thought it was very solid for the grade. It felt much harder than division and dare I say felt harder to me than Isotoner Moaner. To each his own but this felt like the hardest 12a that I have tried up AF. I will speculate a little more on the grade when I go back fresh for the send. Jun 7, 2013
Anson Call
Provo, UT
Anson Call   Provo, UT
Agree with James. Got totally shut down on the crux of this line, then went over to Liquid Oxygen and floated it no problem. Maybe I'm missing some beta, but the crux just felt really thin... Jun 21, 2014
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.12b
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.12b
Pretty dang hard. Getting to the crux is a festival of jugs put there on purpose to wear you out. Working with Jon on it we were doing the crux differently both thinking our way was the easiest - I didn't use the side pull. Balancy and thin. There are some good (blind) footholds but they hide themselves really well when you are pumped. Get on it and don't give up! Struggling Man - the perfect name. We put an extended draw on the last bolt which helped. Also a long draw on bolt 4. Sep 10, 2014