Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 4,251 total · 24/month
Shared By: Neal Carroll on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Please see El Diablo for information on the modified nature of this classic route.

Same start as El Diablo. At the "Sika Pocket" clip the left bolt, then continue up and a little left to the anchors.

A fun crux on crimpers, underclings and big slopey holds hit you once you depart from "El Diablo". This route was one of the all time American Fork classics...and may still be. In July/04 the anchor block fell down (Yikes!), so the future of this route is unknown. For now, either lower off the last bolt or try to finish left on Inferno, and hope those anchors don't fall off!

Protection

Bolts, often fixed. The anchors may be gone...see below

Photos

Mike Personick
SLC, UT
Mike Personick   SLC, UT
The route still goes without the anchor block up there. After the last bolt, do a sporty mantle onto a big ledge and clip the shuts to the left (these are the anchors for Inferno). Lowering off the last bolt is not a valid ascent of Malvado. Jun 28, 2007
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
Aaron Shamy climbs Malvado. Check it out.

youtube.com/watch?v=FT3nz4i… Apr 22, 2010