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Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Perin Blanchard
Page Views: 2,913 total · 50/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description [Suggest Change]

70m Rope Required

A steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section).

From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top ledge, and from there it's another ten feet or so to the chains.

Note that at the tenth bolt you keep heading up and slightly right rather than left onto The Alliance.

70m Rope Required

Location [Suggest Change]

The right of three lines that are bracketed by large trees at the tallest part of the wall. Firefly starts over a squarish indentation; the first bolt is below a small roof, the second bolt is just below a ledge with a bit of a scoop in the back, which is followed by a steep section.

Protection [Suggest Change]

14 bolts, chain anchors. A two-foot sling is recommended for the bolt just below the upper headwall; longer draws on some of the bolts will help mitigate rope drag.

Photos

John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10c
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10c
Arguably the best 5.10c in the canyon. Sep 9, 2013
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
  5.10c
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
  5.10c
Great route. My favorite 10 I've done in AF. I thought that the anchors would make more sense moved about 3 feet left. The last part of the route calls for some sketchy traversing on holds that are ready to blow (and did several times!). Felt a little out of character from the rest of the route. Sep 12, 2013
Crazymonkey  
 
Awesome route! Definately feel exposed pulling the final roof, the holds are all there, but is your endurance? Amazing view from the chains Sep 25, 2014
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
Favorite climb in the area. The moves through the upper overhang were thrilling. Thoroughly enjoyed this pitch. Did not encounter any loose rock. Good to go!! Jun 14, 2015

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