All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Serenity > Eavesdown Docks

Firefly

Name: Firefly
Rating: 3.5

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Eavesdown Docks

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Black Market Beagles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Canceled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Companion, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jubal S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS:	40.45095, -111.66614
FA:	Perin Blanchard
Page Views:	7,177 total · 48/month
Shared By:	Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

70m Rope Required

A steep start through two bolts to a ledge, followed by a slightly overhanging section with wonderful pockets. After the the steep bit, the angle and difficulty eases considerably to a slopey almost-ledge (you may want to use a two-foot sling on the bolt below the next steep section).

From the ledge a gradually steepening section leads to the top past pockets, edges, and an overhanging crux to another, much larger ledge. A fun roof with big holds awaits over the top ledge, and from there it's another ten feet or so to the chains.

Note that at the tenth bolt you keep heading up and slightly right rather than left onto The Alliance.

70m Rope Required

Location

The right of three lines that are bracketed by large trees at the tallest part of the wall. Firefly starts over a squarish indentation; the first bolt is below a small roof, the second bolt is just below a ledge with a bit of a scoop in the back, which is followed by a steep section.

Protection

14 bolts, chain anchors. A two-foot sling is recommended for the bolt just below the upper headwall; longer draws on some of the bolts will help mitigate rope drag.