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Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

The Eavesdown Docks area stretches from a short, south-facing wall that is the right side of an east-facing gully, around the arete defining the end of the gully to a north-facing, overhanging section of stone, followed by lower-angled, taller, north-facing rock until interrupted by a talus slope.

The widest variety of routes at Serenity is located here, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11c.

Getting There

After following the trail from the paved path and turning right at the large stump you will see before you the gray, smooth-appearing Haven wall.

To reach the main body of routes, turn right on the obvious trail rather than hiking up toward Haven.

To reach the gully routes, hike up to Haven and then turn right and uphill.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eavesdown Docks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Stolen Rope
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 85
Shindig
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
The Companion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 96
Out of Gas
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
Out to the Black
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Black Market Beagles
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Bushwhacked
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Jubal
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
Browncoat
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 65
Firefly
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
Captain Hammer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Oh Captain! My Captain!
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
The Alliance
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
Captain Tight Pants
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stolen Rope
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Shindig
 85
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Companion
 42
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Out of Gas
 96
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Out to the Black
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Market Beagles
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bushwhacked
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jubal
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betr…
 66
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Browncoat
 65
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Firefly
 65
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Captain Hammer
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Oh Captain! My Captain!
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Alliance
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Captain Tight Pants
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eavesdown Docks »

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Photos

Tyler Slack
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Tyler Slack   Eagle Mountain, Utah
FYI - I've been climbing in this area all summer and I'm still coming across holds that break off and other rock fall. Belayers especially would be wise to wear a helmet as this area continues to clean up. As fun as many of the climbs are, the rock fall potential does not deter me from coming. Just a word to the wise. Sep 1, 2014

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