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Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,398 total, 27/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A harder-than-it-looks sequence off the ground to clip the second bolt, then fun, but somewhat tricky climbing to a short section of lower-angled rock. The lower-angled rock then steepens to vertical as you approach the intimidating roof. Just keep telling yourself it really is .10a as you grope for holds over the roof and maybe even catch a little air.

Location

Climbs up through a shallow trough ten or fifteen feet left of a tree through a roof up high.

Protection

14 bolts, ring anchors.

Photos

Wulfy Wulfenstein  
  5.10c
A must do climb! Really fun and really safe, the bolts were placed very well. The crux is clearly the shelf and I am sure some beta on how to pull up over the shelf would make it easier. But this climb seemed much harder than the other 10a climbs in the canyon. But don't be discouraged from doing it, any 10a/b climber should give this one a go.

Also just to confirm it is 14 bolts plus chains. May 6, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10b
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10b
Grade for the on-sight boys. 10b Aug 10, 2015
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
Long and fun. Great .10a warm-up for some of the harder routes at the crag. No loose rock was encountered - I think this crag is cleaning up nicely. Jun 14, 2015
Nate Watkins
Cambridge, Ma
  5.10b
Nate Watkins   Cambridge, Ma
  5.10b
Did this today. Pulling the roof is hard and if it wasn't for some beta from Perin's group this morning I wouldn't have gotten it right away. This is a great sustained .10a or b route, but no harder than that when you find the key crux hold. Jul 12, 2014
Travelingrappeler
  5.10b/c
Travelingrappeler  
  5.10b/c
Fun start, chossy middle, perplexing top. 10a if you climb 5.12.

Also 10 bolts not 14. May 16, 2014
B-Dubs
 
B-Dubs  
 
Really fun route! The route is very well protected, great bolt placement the whole way up. The anchors are directly after the roof. May 4, 2014
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
  5.10c
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
  5.10c
Perin - I thought I could hear DK chuckling as I flailed around over that roof :) Sep 13, 2013
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10a
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10a
(Cue evil chuckle from Darren...)

It really is right around .10a, but the key hold isn't immediately obvious from below and the crux is fairly sequential for a .10a.

(I didn't onsight it, which for me is unusual at this grade. I'm sure once it's all chalked up it'll be a bit more obvious.) Sep 12, 2013
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
  5.10c
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
  5.10c
Great climb up through the ninth bolt. At bolt 9, the rock quality gets worse and makes every move slower and more methodical up to the roof. There might be some secret beta for pulling the roof that makes it 10a but I played around up there for about 5 minutes and didn't find anything that felt easier than 10c\d. I thought this felt substantially harder than the 10b right next to it and a little harder than the 10c two routes over. Sep 12, 2013