Elevation: 6,199 ft
GPS: 40.451, -111.666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,941 total · 723/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Shady, with a short approach and lots of moderate routes.

The majority of the routes are on north-north-west and north-west facing rock and thus are in the shade until mid-afternoon during the warmer months. However, even in the afternoon many of the routes are shaded by trees and so are climbable without discomfort.

Note that at the time of this writing the routes here are all less than a year old. Until twenty years of traffic have cleaned them up they won't be quite like Division Wall. There is still a bit of grit and the odd loose rock. The upside is that the routes aren't polished, slick and over-chalked.

Getting There

Park near the outlet of the Little Mill Campground (either inside the campground near Division or just past the exit bridge on the right side of the road).

Find the paved trail that leads east from the campground area (blocked with a couple of anti-vehicle pillars). Follow this trail for a few hundred feet until you come to a clearing on the right side that is bisected by a line of three-foot boulders.

Through the clearing on the far side of the boulders walk over a small, sandy area and follow a trail up the drainage until you come to a large, rough stump on the right side (there is a smaller stump prior to the larger one). Immediately past the stump turn right and walk twenty or thirty feet. You'll see in front of you a gray limestone wall. This is Haven, the left-most collection of routes at Serenity.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Serenity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 120
Shindig
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Terraformed
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Stolen Rope
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
The Companion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 143
Out of Gas
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Out to the Black
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 72
Bushwhacked
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 54
Black Market Beagles
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 94
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 102
Browncoat
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 102
Firefly
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
Our Mrs. Reynolds
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 38
Captain Mal
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 36
Oh Captain! My Captain!
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 44
Shiny
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shindig Eavesdown Docks
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Terraformed Persephone
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Stolen Rope Eavesdown Docks
 70
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Companion Eavesdown Docks
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Out of Gas Eavesdown Docks
 143
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Out to the Black Eavesdown Docks
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bushwhacked Eavesdown Docks
 72
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black Market Beagles Eavesdown Docks
 54
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betr… Eavesdown Docks
 94
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Browncoat Eavesdown Docks
 102
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Firefly Eavesdown Docks
 102
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Our Mrs. Reynolds Persephone
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Captain Mal Eavesdown Docks
 38
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Oh Captain! My Captain! Eavesdown Docks
 36
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Shiny Haven
 44
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Serenity »

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