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Areas in Serenity

Eavesdown Docks 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Haven 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Persephone 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Rim, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

Shady, with a short approach and lots of moderate routes.

The majority of the routes are on north-north-west and north-west facing rock and thus are in the shade until mid-afternoon during the warmer months. However, even in the afternoon many of the routes are shaded by trees and so are climbable without discomfort.

Note that at the time of this writing the routes here are all less than a year old. Until twenty years of traffic have cleaned them up they won't be quite like Division Wall. There is still a bit of grit and the odd loose rock. The upside is that the routes aren't polished, slick and over-chalked.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Getting There

Park near the outlet of the Little Mill Campground (either inside the campground near Division or just past the exit bridge on the right side of the road).

Find the paved trail that leads east from the campground area (blocked with a couple of anti-vehicle pillars). Follow this trail for a few hundred feet until you come to a clearing on the right side that is bisected by a line of three-foot boulders.

Through the clearing on the far side of the boulders walk over a small, sandy area and follow a trail up the drainage until you come to a large, rough stump on the right side (there is a smaller stump prior to the larger one). Immediately past the stump turn right and walk twenty or thirty feet. You'll see in front of you a gray limestone wall. This is Haven, the left-most collection of routes at Serenity.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Serenity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shindig
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Companion
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terraformed
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out of Gas
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bushwhacked
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Browncoat
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Our Mrs. Reynolds
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Hammer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Alliance
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hero Of Canton
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shiny
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone Cold Xiaosho
Sport
Shindig Eavesdown Docks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Companion Eavesdown Docks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Terraformed Persephone 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Out of Gas Eavesdown Docks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Out to the Black Eavesdown Docks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bushwhacked Eavesdown Docks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betr… Eavesdown Docks 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Browncoat Eavesdown Docks 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Firefly Eavesdown Docks 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Our Mrs. Reynolds Persephone 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Captain Hammer Eavesdown Docks 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Alliance Eavesdown Docks 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hero Of Canton Persephone 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Shiny Haven 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stone Cold Xiaosho Haven 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Serenity »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Dan.C  
Left camera in black bag earlier this week at the crag. If found please let me know it would be much appreciated! Got $100 for ya too:)! Has lots of pics love to get back. Thanks!!! Sep 8, 2017
Boissal, keep on crushing it keyboard warrior! Aug 21, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
This isn't the gym you knob, the developers aren't going to be trimming mature pine trees to ensure you don't rip your abercrombie garments. Bring a fucking rake and level the base of the climbs instead of whining that people didn't do enough to satisfy your plastic munching ass. Aug 14, 2017
I took a fall between the last bolt and the chains on "Our Mrs. Reynolds", hit the tree behind me and ripped apart my shorts. Between the choss, shitty belay area, and trees that were never properly trimmed, this area needs a lot more work. Careful at this crag! Aug 12, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Great little crag. Some really good rock - in spots. Believe it or not, this is what most AF crags were like 25 years ago; chossy but with good texture. As the looseness cleans up, the holds polish up. Get it while it's good. Aug 10, 2015
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
Climbed this area for the first time, and was a bit worried about loose rock based on the MP comments for the area. I was pleasantly surprised to find the rock solid and clean, shade and comfortable climbing temperatures, and the routes long, well bolted and very enjoyable. We had no issues with rock fall or blowing holds. Jun 14, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Give this area 5 years and hopefully it will be as clean as division, but for now, beware the choss! We did our part by breaking several holds, mostly feet, on every route. Oct 19, 2014
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
@chris_nance, thanks for the input and for adding your take on route ratings. I know there are more climbers on these routes so hopefully they will share their feedback too. Jun 10, 2014
Fun routes! The routes need some clean-up for sure. The grades were not consistent with other AF areas in my opinion. I thought over-all the grades were higher than they should have been. The 11's were closer to upper 10s and as the routes get cleaner and holds become more obvious I think the ratings will need to come down significantly. Thanks for all the work and effort putting them up. Very nice spot! Jun 8, 2014
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
Great area!! I can't believe how much good climbing these guys pulled out of a 5 minute approach from the car. Definitely take helmets; you'll be sure to pull several holds off each route you get on. Also consider rapping off some of the taller routes - the anchors are above ledges or bulges that make getting lowered hard on your rope.

Thanks for all the work! Sep 12, 2013
Finally, a shady summer cliff with a bunch of moderate routes.
Should not take too long to clean up as it will probably become one of the most popular cliffs in the canyon.
I would strongly suggest the belayer wear a helmet for the next year or two.

Kudos to Perin and Darren for all the hard work and expense. Sep 8, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Solid work gentlemen! It's not everyday that you see 25 odd new routes pop up in AF. Can't wait to visit the crag and clean some of the choss off! I like the naming scheme too! Sep 8, 2013
Somebody's been watching a little Firefly! Sep 7, 2013

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