Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 4,845 total · 74/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


109 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.

Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for Shindig) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.

After the ledge climb next to the left-facing flake, marveling that the flake isn't coming off.

A tenuous couple of moves right before the chains and then it's over.

Location

Starts up the right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. Shares its first bolt with Shindig.

Protection

9 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Captain Tight Pants to the left).

Photos

nooky brown  
 
Two cents worth.
Move the top bolts 3 feet left for a nicer (9+ish) finish on the black wall.
Or lower the anchor down to the half way ledge and it will become the most done 5.9 in the canyon.
Giving it 3 stars to the mid ledge only.
Good work gents. Sep 8, 2013
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
  5.9
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
  5.9
Great route Darren! Sep 12, 2013
E
 
E  
 
Though the top might be a little easier, it is still a lot of fun. Possibly my new favorite 9. May 20, 2014
OldManRiver _
Salt Lake City, UT
OldManRiver _   Salt Lake City, UT
good song 2 Jun 3, 2016