Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 3,973 total, 76/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


80 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.

Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for Shindig) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.

After the ledge climb next to the left-facing flake, marveling that the flake isn't coming off.

A tenuous couple of moves right before the chains and then it's over.

Location

Starts up the right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. Shares its first bolt with Shindig.

Protection

9 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Captain Tight Pants to the left).

Photos

OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
good song 2 Jun 3, 2016
Eric
 
Eric  
 
Though the top might be a little easier, it is still a lot of fun. Possibly my new favorite 9. May 20, 2014
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
  5.9
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
  5.9
Great route Darren! Sep 12, 2013
nooky brown  
 
Two cents worth.
Move the top bolts 3 feet left for a nicer (9+ish) finish on the black wall.
Or lower the anchor down to the half way ledge and it will become the most done 5.9 in the canyon.
Giving it 3 stars to the mid ledge only.
Good work gents. Sep 8, 2013