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Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 1,008 total, 20/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A relatively casual first half leads to a steepening section where the holds get smaller, harder-to-find, and are pointed in less-than-helpful directions. Concentrating on feet, and looking for the best of the pockets keeps it sub-5.10. A fun outing.

Location

The second line to the right of the right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock.

Protection

13 quickdraws, 11 bolts plus ring anchors.

Photos

Britney Talbot  
  5.9
I counted 9 bolts plus 2 for anchor, not 13. The climb made me a bit more pumped than some 5.10s I've climbed. I would still say it is a solid 5.9 though. There are good finger pockets and footholds throughout the climb and you just have to find them. There's still a lot of dirt and loose rocks so I would advise the belayer to wear a helmet. With more people climbing it, I think it will clean up into a really awesome route! Jul 9, 2017
clive curson
  5.10a
clive curson  
  5.10a
11 bolts + 2 chains. Seemed hard for 5.9. Tried to make it easier on toprope up to the left - still 10a-ish. Aug 4, 2016
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Still shedding holds in 2016. If I have the right climb, it has a large aluminum ring hung on a sling on the seventh bolt, right before the crux, which is awkward, delicate climbing on breakable holds. Looks like someone bailed? I counted nine bolts + anchors, not 13. Apr 13, 2016
Choss. It needs 5 years of heavy use to even get a star from me. Nice pockets here and there, but a whole lotta choss cubes all over. May 16, 2014