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Serenity

Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Shady, with a short approach and lots of moderate routes.

The majority of the routes are on north-north-west and north-west facing rock and thus are in the shade until mid-afternoon during the warmer months. However, even in the afternoon many of the routes are shaded by trees and so are climbable without discomfort.

Note that at the time of this writing the routes here are all less than a year old. Until twenty years of traffic have cleaned them up they won't be quite like Division Wall. There is still a bit of grit and the odd loose rock. The upside is that the routes aren't polished, slick and over-chalked.

Getting There

Park near the outlet of the Little Mill Campground (either inside the campground near Division or just past the exit bridge on the right side of the road).

Find the paved trail that leads east from the campground area (blocked with a couple of anti-vehicle pillars). Follow this trail for a few hundred feet until you come to a clearing on the right side that is bisected by a line of three-foot boulders.

Through the clearing on the far side of the boulders walk over a small, sandy area and follow a trail up the drainage until you come to a large, rough stump on the right side (there is a smaller stump prior to the larger one). Immediately past the stump turn right and walk twenty or thirty feet. You'll see in front of you a gray limestone wall. This is Haven, the left-most collection of routes at Serenity.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Getting There" map.
[Hide Photo] "Getting There" map.
DK, Perin, John Ross. Hard at work making Serenity the awesome place that it is.
[Hide Photo] DK, Perin, John Ross. Hard at work making Serenity the awesome place that it is.
<em>Serenity</em> overview.
[Hide Photo] Serenity overview.
The stump in the description after which you turn right.
[Hide Photo] The stump in the description after which you turn right.
The clearing bisected by boulders in the description.
[Hide Photo] The clearing bisected by boulders in the description.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Somebody's been watching a little Firefly! Sep 7, 2013
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Solid work gentlemen! It's not everyday that you see 25 odd new routes pop up in AF. Can't wait to visit the crag and clean some of the choss off! I like the naming scheme too! Sep 8, 2013
[Hide Comment] Finally, a shady summer cliff with a bunch of moderate routes.
Should not take too long to clean up as it will probably become one of the most popular cliffs in the canyon.
I would strongly suggest the belayer wear a helmet for the next year or two.

Kudos to Perin and Darren for all the hard work and expense. Sep 8, 2013
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
[Hide Comment] Great area!! I can't believe how much good climbing these guys pulled out of a 5 minute approach from the car. Definitely take helmets; you'll be sure to pull several holds off each route you get on. Also consider rapping off some of the taller routes - the anchors are above ledges or bulges that make getting lowered hard on your rope.

Thanks for all the work! Sep 12, 2013
chris nance
Hotchkiss, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun routes! The routes need some clean-up for sure. The grades were not consistent with other AF areas in my opinion. I thought over-all the grades were higher than they should have been. The 11's were closer to upper 10s and as the routes get cleaner and holds become more obvious I think the ratings will need to come down significantly. Thanks for all the work and effort putting them up. Very nice spot! Jun 8, 2014
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
[Hide Comment] @chris_nance, thanks for the input and for adding your take on route ratings. I know there are more climbers on these routes so hopefully they will share their feedback too. Jun 10, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Give this area 5 years and hopefully it will be as clean as division, but for now, beware the choss! We did our part by breaking several holds, mostly feet, on every route. Oct 19, 2014
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] Climbed this area for the first time, and was a bit worried about loose rock based on the MP comments for the area. I was pleasantly surprised to find the rock solid and clean, shade and comfortable climbing temperatures, and the routes long, well bolted and very enjoyable. We had no issues with rock fall or blowing holds. Jun 14, 2015
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
[Hide Comment] Great little crag. Some really good rock - in spots. Believe it or not, this is what most AF crags were like 25 years ago; chossy but with good texture. As the looseness cleans up, the holds polish up. Get it while it's good. Aug 10, 2015
[Hide Comment] I took a fall between the last bolt and the chains on "Our Mrs. Reynolds", hit the tree behind me and ripped apart my shorts. Between the choss, shitty belay area, and trees that were never properly trimmed, this area needs a lot more work. Careful at this crag! Aug 12, 2017
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] This isn't the gym you knob, the developers aren't going to be trimming mature pine trees to ensure you don't rip your abercrombie garments. Bring a fucking rake and level the base of the climbs instead of whining that people didn't do enough to satisfy your plastic munching ass. Aug 14, 2017
[Hide Comment] Boissal, keep on crushing it keyboard warrior! Aug 21, 2017
[Hide Comment] Left camera in black bag earlier this week at the crag. If found please let me know it would be much appreciated! Got $100 for ya too:)! Has lots of pics love to get back. Thanks!!! Sep 8, 2017
Stephanie Liao
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] There's a new more mellow trail with switchbacks to the left of the stump trail. Unless you're into a really steep trail with lots of loose rock, take the new trail to Serenity wall! :) Jun 26, 2022
Anson Ho
Layton, UT
[Hide Comment] I left my gri gri with a purple Black Diamond screw lock and belay glasses at the wall last Friday. If anyone running up there sees or picked it up, I would be so appreciative to have it back. Thanks :( Sep 18, 2023