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Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darren Knezek & Perin Blanchard
Page Views: 944 total, 18/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of Out of Gas to the top.

Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending Captain Tight Pants is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.

Location

Located a few feet left of the large, right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. The line leads over a roof with quite blank-looking rock above the roof.

Protection

10 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Out of Gas to the right).

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Tall beta skips the bad right hand sidepulls and goes straight for the jug. Big move but probably not 11c. The large pocket has pointy teeth, barely worth the lost skin... Aug 14, 2017
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.11c
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.11c
Although some will disagree (because of the overall route), this is easily a 5.11c.

It's one of those routes that highlights the issue with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The two crux moves on this route are very low. Each crux move is as hard/harder than any single move on a benchmark 5.11c, like License To Thrill. But 3/4 of the climb is 5.9 so overall it feels easier than 5.11c. But, the crux is definitely 5.11c, so on the YDS it's 5.11c Aug 22, 2014
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.11c
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.11c
Crux spoiler alert!
youtube.com/watch?v=O4y5UQE… Sep 9, 2013