Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darren Knezek & Perin Blanchard
Page Views: 1,148 total · 17/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


A pocket-pulling start with lousy feet that is best gotten through quickly leads to a couple of underclings from which you set out through a thin, reachy, and slightly cerebral section using a fair amount of exertion to much-anticipated larger holds, and a breathy, balancy bit of 5.10 to easier ground. Follow the large pockets, edges and flake of Out of Gas to the top.

Although a bit of a two-move wonder, sending Captain Tight Pants is never-the-less a satisfying endeavor.


Located a few feet left of the large, right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. The line leads over a roof with quite blank-looking rock above the roof.


10 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Out of Gas to the right).


John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
Crux spoiler alert!
youtube.com/watch?v=O4y5UQE… Sep 9, 2013
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
Although some will disagree (because of the overall route), this is easily a 5.11c.

It's one of those routes that highlights the issue with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). The two crux moves on this route are very low. Each crux move is as hard/harder than any single move on a benchmark 5.11c, like License To Thrill. But 3/4 of the climb is 5.9 so overall it feels easier than 5.11c. But, the crux is definitely 5.11c, so on the YDS it's 5.11c Aug 22, 2014
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Tall beta skips the bad right hand sidepulls and goes straight for the jug. Big move but probably not 11c. The large pocket has pointy teeth, barely worth the lost skin... Aug 14, 2017