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Routes in Eavesdown Docks

Alliance, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Market Beagles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Browncoat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhacked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canceled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Hammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Captain Mal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Tight Pants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Companion, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Damage My Calm S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firefly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jubal S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out of Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to the Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shindig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Rope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Pretty to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 827 total, 16/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Climb Firefly for ten bolts. Head left toward the red-painted hanger. Find the good holds that lead to a position below the roof.

Search out unlikely holds and craft a plan of attack for the roof (but don't dawdle – the position below the roof is positive but a bit strenuous).

Once your feet are over the roof it's big holds to a final, not-too-difficult-but-never-the-less-exhilarating mantel-esqe move onto a big ledge and the chains.

If you use longer draws on the bolts of Firefly, and continue to do so up until the roof the rope drag will be minimal.

Location

See Firefly. Heads left after the tenth bolt.

Protection

15 bolts (first 10 shared with Firefly), ring anchors over a ledge. Watch the ends of your rope on a 60 meter as this one will be close!

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