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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Black Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.

There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.

As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!

Getting There

You can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.

After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Magic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Kronk
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Orogeny
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Unknown
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 43
Helix
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Orogeny Extension
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Problem Child
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
True Lies
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Black Magic
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Hexed
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 3
Simian
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kronk
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Orogeny
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Unknown
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Helix
 43
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Orogeny Extension
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Problem Child
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
True Lies
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Black Magic
 18
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hexed
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Simian
 3
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Magic »

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Having never been to the BM cave till today, I found the directions here to be quite poor as the cave is a considerable distance downcanyon from the .5 mile pullout and the directions here made it sound nearby. Here are some better directions for a low water approach.

Park .3 miles upcanyon of the visitor center rather than .5 at a fairly big pullout on the NORTH side of the road with a huge scree field and powerline. The cave will NOT be visible through thick trees just south of the pullout. Cross the road and find a route across the river(rock hopping in low water). Head upcanyon through some trees on a faint trail till you hit rock, then it should be obvious as you spot the cave and wooden steps. max 5 minutes from river.

If its high water, you may have to park at the .5 mile pullout to find a log to cross the river(did not see pipe), then hike the .2 mile back downcanyon. Sep 14, 2013
Anson Call
Provo, UT
Anson Call   Provo, UT
Does anyone have any info on the line immediately to the right of Helix? It goes maybe 6 or 7 bolts, straight up the slab and into a hole in the roof that's filled with guano. I can't seem to find any info anywhere. FWIW, I tried it out and it seems like a really fun climb. May 15, 2014
@anson call, I've heard it's a 5.12a... that's about all I've been able to dig up about it Oct 10, 2014

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