Black Magic Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.445, -111.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||11,915 total · 73/month|
|Shared By:||richard magill on Aug 6, 2004|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionBlack Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.
There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.
As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!
Getting ThereYou can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.
After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.
Classic Climbing Routes at Black Magic
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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