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Black Magic Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Black Magic

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Designer Babies S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fatal Discharge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Hexed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lock and Load S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Lock-rogeny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Stay on the Porch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	True Lies S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Voodoo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

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Elevation:	5,878 ft	1,792 m
GPS:	40.44472, -111.69582 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	37,901 total · 141/month
Shared By:	richard magill on Aug 6, 2004
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

Black Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.

There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.

As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!

Getting There

You can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.

After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Magic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 80 ● Kronk Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 24 ● Stay on the Porch Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 74 ● Orogeny Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 18 ● Fatal Discharge Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 78 ● Helix Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 38 ● Orogeny Extension Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● Helix direct Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 63 ● Problem Child Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 37 ● Chalk On The Trigger Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● Helixor Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 5 ● Ouija Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 19 ● Lock and Load Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 41 ● Black Magic Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 6 ● Hexed Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c 7 ● Simian Sport