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Elevation: 5,878 ft 1,792 m
GPS: 40.44472, -111.69582
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,223 total · 154/month
Shared By: richard magill on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Black Magic is home to the ultra-cool "Helix", a hard 12b (maybe a bit of a sandbag at that rating)that actually spirals up into the top of a big cave.One of the most unique routes you will ever do.

There are also many other routes, most of which are 5.12 and harder, including "Simian" (middle 5.13). There are a couple of 11ish routes as well, but not much else to warm up on.

As a destination, I like the Membrane or the Billboard better (more great routes), but this is worth visiting just for a trip up the Helix - fantastic!

Getting There Suggest change

You can park on the right about half a mile after the visitor center. If you walk up the road a bit, there used to be a pipe that you could use as a bridge across the stream - may still be there.

After crossing the stream , go right on the trail until you come to a big cave. This is it.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Black Magic Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Magic

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Kronk
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
Stay on the Porch
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
The Price Is Right
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 58
Orogeny
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Fatal Discharge
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 70
Helix
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 32
Orogeny Extension
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Helix direct
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 45
Problem Child
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 28
Chalk On The Trigger
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Lock and Load
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 36
Black Magic
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
True Lies
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Hexed
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 4
Simian
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kronk
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stay on the Porch
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Price Is Right
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Orogeny
 58
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fatal Discharge
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Helix
 70
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Orogeny Extension
 32
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Helix direct
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Problem Child
 45
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Chalk On The Trigger
 28
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Lock and Load
 7
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Black Magic
 36
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
True Lies
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hexed
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Simian
 4
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
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