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Routes in White Wave Wall

Edge of Chaos, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kill Your Lawyer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knuckle Up S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Naked Knuckle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Naked Nebula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rhinoplasty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sandbagged by the Weatherman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Virtual Reality S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 3,932 total, 19/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


101 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This route probably deserves 4 stars, but I don't think it is quite as good as the 4 star routes on the Billboard. So really it probably gets 3 and a half stars. Also, this is probably the easiest 12a tick in American Fork, which may be of interest to some folks! After numerous AF sandbags, you might find this route to be more in the ballpark of what you expect for 12a.

This is the farthest left route on the Wave as you are facing it. Just right of it is a 12d called Knuckle Up, and there is also a linkup between the two lines. Anyway, stay left for Naked Nebula.

Starts slabbly, turns vertical, then steepens to overhanging. The steep part has lots of good holds - a bit reachy in spots. Don't get me wrong about the grade, it is legit 12a (just not a typical AF sandbag) and you will be pumped at the anchors. Fun!

Protection

9 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.12a
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.12a
I agree with Ryan, this thing is much, much harder than License to Thrill, and harder than many .12a's in the canyon (certainly not .12b though). Apr 16, 2017
Ryan Arnold
  5.12a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.12a
As a counterpoint to Brad; this was the 12a that took me the longest to send this year. Nearly 10 tries, when most others were 2-5. Having said that, I do far better on vertical crimps than on overhanging jugs, so it's probably a style thing. Oct 27, 2016
bheller
SL UT
  5.11c
bheller   SL UT
  5.11c
A total handbag at 12a...it feels the same difficulty as License to Thrill...11c
Be careful with the slab...ground falls possible. Sep 25, 2016
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.12a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.12a
Most of this climb is nothing special, but the final roof section makes it worth the climb. The start is easy all the way up through mildly overhung rock. There are lots of pockets, with some big moves. Pay attention through the crux because there are small 2-finger pockets on the left side, although I didn't think they were that sharp. The hardest part is telling yourself to climb above the 6th and 7th draws before clipping each, because that's where the best pockets are. The topout onto the face was surprisingly easy. Jun 7, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.12a
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.12a
This is a very pumpy climb. The start is fairly easy with crimps then eases up to a rest. Then the climb slowly gets steeper and steeper. I really like the big moves to big holds. The crux is going over the roof. Dont forget the key foothold and put some tape on your left fingers for the sharp 2 finger pocket you have to move thru. The top has 2 biners for clipping into, altho they should be replaced by something more permanent. i highly recommend this climb for the endurance factor. You'll figure it out quick, but the entire journey is taxing. Loved it. Thanks Perin for helping me thru this one! Jun 11, 2008