Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 5,338 total · 24/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

116 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


This route probably deserves 4 stars, but I don't think it is quite as good as the 4 star routes on the Billboard. So really it probably gets 3 and a half stars. Also, this is probably the easiest 12a tick in American Fork, which may be of interest to some folks! After numerous AF sandbags, you might find this route to be more in the ballpark of what you expect for 12a.

This is the farthest left route on the Wave as you are facing it. Just right of it is a 12d called Knuckle Up, and there is also a linkup between the two lines. Anyway, stay left for Naked Nebula.

Starts slabbly, turns vertical, then steepens to overhanging. The steep part has lots of good holds - a bit reachy in spots. Don't get me wrong about the grade, it is legit 12a (just not a typical AF sandbag) and you will be pumped at the anchors. Fun!


9 bolts to anchors.


Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
This is a very pumpy climb. The start is fairly easy with crimps then eases up to a rest. Then the climb slowly gets steeper and steeper. I really like the big moves to big holds. The crux is going over the roof. Dont forget the key foothold and put some tape on your left fingers for the sharp 2 finger pocket you have to move thru. The top has 2 biners for clipping into, altho they should be replaced by something more permanent. i highly recommend this climb for the endurance factor. You'll figure it out quick, but the entire journey is taxing. Loved it. Thanks Perin for helping me thru this one! Jun 11, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
Bad Sock Puppet  
Most of this climb is nothing special, but the final roof section makes it worth the climb. The start is easy all the way up through mildly overhung rock. There are lots of pockets, with some big moves. Pay attention through the crux because there are small 2-finger pockets on the left side, although I didn't think they were that sharp. The hardest part is telling yourself to climb above the 6th and 7th draws before clipping each, because that's where the best pockets are. The topout onto the face was surprisingly easy. Jun 7, 2009
bheller   SL UT
A total handbag at 12a...it feels the same difficulty as License to Thrill...11c
12 bolts to chains. Sep 25, 2016
Ryan Arnold
Ryan Arnold  
As a counterpoint to Brad; this was the 12a that took me the longest to send this year. Nearly 10 tries, when most others were 2-5. Having said that, I do far better on vertical crimps than on overhanging jugs, so it's probably a style thing. Oct 27, 2016
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
I agree with Ryan, this thing is much, much harder than License to Thrill, and harder than many .12a's in the canyon (certainly not .12b though). Apr 16, 2017
Steve Miller
West Jordan
Steve Miller   West Jordan
Super casual to about the 7th bolt with a hands free rest. then it gets steep. Lots of jugs to clip from. Fun roof pull.
Got it second go.
I'm okay with the 12.a rating. Aug 31, 2018