The Edge of Chaos
Avg: 3.2 from 53 votes
|Type:||Sport, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||1,994 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Mar 26, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA really enjoyable jug haul with a remarkably airy lower-off or rappel. The Edge of Chaos has some exciting, hard moves interspersed with good rests.
Get past the initial two bolts by classic AF pocket pulling over the starting overhang. The start is a bit tricky because the feet are thin, and after the first obvious ones, the correct pockets/jugs are a bit hard to find.
Continue up and right on less-than-vertical terrain to the third bolt, and then things get steeper. There are some fun liebacking moves, and as you start back left again, a confidence-building, off-balance, double sidepull move that is pretty cool. The left-trending top bit is pretty fun because your mind is telling you that you really don't want to go that way and follow the bolt line...it's just not natural to dangle your corpus over a bunch of air.
Cleaning the route while lowering or rappelling would be challenging, to say the least. Do yourself a favor and run up it on toprope to clean it.