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Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Elevation: 5,901 ft
GPS: 40.445, -111.697 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.

There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.

This link shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).

Routes left to right:

1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b

The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b

On north-facing wall around outside corner:
8. DK .11a
9. DK unfinished (up black streak)
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. DK .11+
12. DK .11-
13. DK .10d

In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. DK .8

On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey .12a
16. DK Unfinished
17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished

Around the buttress on the west side:
20. Osmosis .12a
21. Active Transport .12a/b
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Getting There

Park at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.

A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.

Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Unknown Pleasures

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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greg austin
Lehi, Utah
greg austin   Lehi, Utah
Climb 13 on this list is a thriller, possibly a 4 star climb, I think. Climb 14 is a 5.9 I think, and is also way fun. It has an airy chimney that will take your breath away. Time for some more info on these climbs please. What are 16,18, and 19? Dec 7, 2015
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
I saw DK up at membrane recently and he implied many of these routes are good to go, although a few of them are still not cleaned sufficiently. One he mentioned (not sure which!) has a death block on it. Next time I head up I'll do any/all that seem safe. Jun 17, 2015
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
In this case "unfinished" means that the lines are bolted but not yet fully cleaned. Might be dangerous to climb. Aug 21, 2014
Hey just wondering if anyone has any more information about the routes around the corner. I see them listed above but was wondering if the "unfinshed" meant it was open. I was up there the other day and didn't notice any red tags, but also wasn't looking for them. Are these open projects? Aug 20, 2014

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