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Unknown Pleasures Rock Climbing
Routes in Unknown Pleasures
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Active Transport S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Boys Don't Cry S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Burnt to the Bone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Closer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack in the Armor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desperation Takes Hold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Don’t Mess With Texas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear In The Western World S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fingers of Flame S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gates of Steel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Grass Ain't Greener, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gut Feeling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Highway Shrubbery S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's a Beautiful World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Nariz de la Bruja S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monogoloid S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oni S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Osmosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Persona Non Grata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pocket full of thoughts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rickety Cricket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shadowplay S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sharkfighter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Substance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Through Being Cool S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ticket to Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Touch of Grey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown Pleasures S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whip It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Working in a Coal Mine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Elevation: | 5,901 ft | 1,799 m |
| GPS: |
40.4445, -111.6966 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 21,466 total · 129/month | |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012 | |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.
There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.
This link;cp=qr6mqq5prqzr&lvl=18.65&dir=257.59&sty=o&where1=Timpanogos%20Cave%20National%20Monument%2C%20UT&form=LMLTCC shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).
Routes left to right:
1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b
The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b
Devo Wall: North-facing wall around outside corner:
8. Gut Feeling .11a
9. DK .12b
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. Through Being Cool .11+
12.Monogoloid .11-
13.Whip It .10d
In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. Working in a Coal Mine .8
On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey .12a
16. DK .11d (to first chain; second pitch unfinished)
17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished
20. The Grass Ain't Greener .8
21. DK .8
22. DK .10b (crack)
On north-facing wall past outside corner:
23. DK unfinished (don't climb; has coffin-sized death block)
Around the buttress on the west side:
24. Osmosis .12a
25. Active Transport .12a/b
Getting There
Park at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.
A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.
Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.
If the log is gone, or if it's too dangerous to cross because of high water: Proceed down-canyon on the south side of the road until just past where the river crosses under the road. Head south into the trees (there is a bit of a path). After scrambling up a short, annoyingly loose, steep slope turn up-canyon and you'll come to an outcropping that blocks your way. Scramble around the north bit of the outcropping and then perform a precarious downclimb using a fixed rope. Once back on the ground head up-canyon more-or-less along the river until you can turn uphill towards Black Magic Cave and from there to Unknown Pleasures.
Classic Climbing Routes at Unknown Pleasures
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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