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Unknown Pleasures Rock Climbing
Routes in Unknown Pleasures
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Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monogoloid S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Persona Non Grata S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadowplay S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Through Being Cool S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown 5.11 Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 5.8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Pleasures S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Whip It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Working in a Coal Mine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 5,901 ft |
| GPS: |
40.4445, -111.6966 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 20,237 total · 153/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.
There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.
This link;cp=qr6mqq5prqzr&lvl=18.65&dir=257.59&sty=o&where1=Timpanogos%20Cave%20National%20Monument%2C%20UT&form=LMLTCC shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).
Routes left to right:
1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b
The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b
Devo Wall: North-facing wall around outside corner:
8. Unknown 5.11 Corner .11a
9. DK .12b
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. Through Being Cool .11+
12.Monogoloid .11-
13.Whip It .10d
In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. Working in a Coal Mine .8
On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey .12a
16. DK .11d (to first chain; second pitch unfinished)
17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished
20. Unknown 5.8 .8
21. DK .8
22. DK .10b (crack)
On north-facing wall past outside corner:
23. DK unfinished (don't climb; has coffin-sized death block)
Around the buttress on the west side:
24. Osmosis .12a
25. Active Transport .12a/b
There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.
This link;cp=qr6mqq5prqzr&lvl=18.65&dir=257.59&sty=o&where1=Timpanogos%20Cave%20National%20Monument%2C%20UT&form=LMLTCC shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).
Routes left to right:
1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b
The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b
Devo Wall: North-facing wall around outside corner:
8. Unknown 5.11 Corner .11a
9. DK .12b
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. Through Being Cool .11+
12.Monogoloid .11-
13.Whip It .10d
In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. Working in a Coal Mine .8
On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey .12a
16. DK .11d (to first chain; second pitch unfinished)
17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished
20. Unknown 5.8 .8
21. DK .8
22. DK .10b (crack)
On north-facing wall past outside corner:
23. DK unfinished (don't climb; has coffin-sized death block)
Around the buttress on the west side:
24. Osmosis .12a
25. Active Transport .12a/b
Getting There
Park at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.
A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.
Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.
A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.
Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.
Classic Climbing Routes at Unknown Pleasures
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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