Unknown Pleasures Rock Climbing
Routes in Unknown Pleasures
|Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|GPS:||40.445, -111.697 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
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DescriptionAn east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.
There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.
This link shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).
Routes left to right:
1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b
The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b
On north-facing wall around outside corner:
8. DK .11a
9. DK unfinished (up black streak)
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. DK .11+
12. DK .11-
13. DK .10d
In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. DK .8
On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey .12a
16. DK Unfinished
17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished
Around the buttress on the west side:
20. Osmosis .12a
21. Active Transport .12a/b
Getting TherePark at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.
A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.
Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.
Classic Climbing Routes at Unknown Pleasures
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season