Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,901 ft 1,799 m
GPS: 40.4445, -111.6966
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,990 total · 143/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.

There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in.

This link;cp=qr6mqq5prqzr&lvl=18.65&dir=257.59&sty=o&where1=Timpanogos%20Cave%20National%20Monument%2C%20UT&form=LMLTCC shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).

Routes left to right:

1. Leapin' Lizards .10b
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards)
3. Persona Non Grata .10c
4. Sharkfighter .12b

The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures .12a/b
7. Closer .12b

Devo Wall: North-facing wall around outside corner:
8. Unknown 5.11 Corner .11a
9. DK .12b
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. Through Being Cool .11+
12.Monogoloid .11-
13.Whip It .10d

In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. Working in a Coal Mine .8

On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey .12a
16. DK .11d (to first chain; second pitch unfinished)
17. Oni .11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished
20. The Grass Ain't Greener .8
21. DK .8
22. DK .10b (crack)

On north-facing wall past outside corner:
23. DK unfinished (don't climb; has coffin-sized death block)

Around the buttress on the west side:
24. Osmosis .12a
25. Active Transport .12a/b

Getting There Suggest change

Park at a small pullout (click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley.

A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.

Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.

If the log is gone, or if it's too dangerous to cross because of high water: Proceed down-canyon on the south side of the road until just past where the river crosses under the road. Head south into the trees (there is a bit of a path). After scrambling up a short, annoyingly loose, steep slope turn up-canyon and you'll come to an outcropping that blocks your way. Scramble around the north bit of the outcropping and then perform a precarious downclimb using a fixed rope. Once back on the ground head up-canyon more-or-less along the river until you can turn uphill towards Black Magic Cave and from there to Unknown Pleasures.

15 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Unknown Pleasures Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Unknown Pleasures

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
The Grass Ain't Greener
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
Working in a Coal Mine
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 56
Leapin' Lizards
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Persona Non Grata
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Whip It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Unknown 5.11 Corner
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Monogoloid
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Through Being Cool
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Oni
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
Desperation Takes Hold
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Touch of Grey
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Unknown Pleasures
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Sharkfighter
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Unknown
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Grass Ain't Greener
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Working in a Coal Mine
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Leapin' Lizards
 56
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Persona Non Grata
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Whip It
 40
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Unknown 5.11 Corner
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Monogoloid
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Through Being Cool
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Oni
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Desperation Takes Hold
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Touch of Grey
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Unknown Pleasures
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sharkfighter
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Unknown
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Unknown Pleasures »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading