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Routes in The Billboard

American Flyers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apetizer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Atmosphere S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beeline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blue Mask, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bubba Gump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death of a Sailsman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eating the Gun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Erection or Ejection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghost Dance (A.K.A. Limestone Cowboy) S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Gorillas in the Snow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gridlock S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Invisible Man, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Invitation to the Blues S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Monkey Brains S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Music for Chameleons S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shining, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Small Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This Must Be The Pickle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To Hell on a Rocket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 6,759 ft
GPS: 40.451, -111.676 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 13,922 total, 80/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11. What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival. Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on. This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a South facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Getting There

Who knows how to get here. If you park about .2 miles from the Little Mill campground, then there is a cairned trail on the left that heads up to The Billboard; it's a bit past the parking spot. The trail is lousy, steep, and easily lost. Furthermore, if it is dry outside, then the trail becomes very loose. Poke along, keep your eyes open, carry what you need. The trail will eventually get you to the crag.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Billboard

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What times does this crag go into the shade? I'm specifically asking for the grid wall, but I think they are similar. Ideas on times for summer and winter? Thanks! Sep 8, 2016
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
One more thing on the hike...all the info here is spot on in relation to parking, trail distance, etc. I will add that after hiking 10 or so minutes you will come to a little slab area, keep going. We turned around thinking we had hit the wrong trail, then went back. We added a cairn for wayward peeps like us. Have fun...Cool Zone. Sep 6, 2016
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Jeremy's directions are spot on. The trail is pretty decent now, not sure what it was like 10 years ago but it's easy to follow now and like brad says, it's maybe 15-20 minutes, not 30-40 like ruckmans suggest. Had no problems finding the crag my first time Apr 18, 2015
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area. This pullout is located about 100 yds down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (faint). If using the Ruckman guidebook, page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says "Little Mill Campground, one way" should say Saw Mill Picnic Area. Oct 31, 2011
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
In reality this is no more than a 20 minute hike- 15 if you're fit. Not a big deal at all. Jun 14, 2009

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