Elevation: 6,759 ft
GPS: 40.451, -111.676 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 56,916 total · 244/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11.

What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival.

Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on.

This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a south-facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.

Getting There

To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area.

This pullout is located about 100 yards down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (the start is a bit faint).

If using the Ruckman guidebook page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says Little Mill Campground, one way" is now Saw Mill Picnic Area.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Billboard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
Small Change
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 64
Erection or Ejection
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 38
Music for Chameleons
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Death of a Sailsman
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 85
Beeline
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
American Flyers
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
Gorillas in the Snow
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 45
Apetizer
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Eating the Gun
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 33
This Must Be The Pickle
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 13
Atmosphere
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
The Invisible Man
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 6
The Final Sound
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
The Shining
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
The Blue Mask
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Small Change Gridwall
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Erection or Ejection Gridwall
 64
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Music for Chameleons Gridwall
 38
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Death of a Sailsman Gridwall
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Beeline Gridwall
 85
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
American Flyers Gridwall
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gorillas in the Snow Apetizer Wall
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Apetizer Apetizer Wall
 45
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Eating the Gun Apetizer Wall
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
This Must Be The Pickle Apetizer Wall
 33
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Atmosphere Apetizer Wall
 13
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Invisible Man Apetizer Wall
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Final Sound Apetizer Wall
 6
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
The Shining Apetizer Wall
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Blue Mask Apetizer Wall
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Billboard »

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