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Areas in The Billboard

Apetizer Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Gridwall 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11.

What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival.

Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on.

This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a south-facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.

Getting There

To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area.

This pullout is located about 100 yards down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (the start is a bit faint).

If using the Ruckman guidebook page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says Little Mill Campground, one way" is now Saw Mill Picnic Area.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Billboard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 36
Small Change
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 41
Erection or Ejection
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Death of a Sailsman
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Beeline
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Gorillas in the Snow
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Apetizer
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Eating the Gun
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
This Must Be The Pickle
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Monkey Brains
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Atmosphere
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Ghost Dance (A.K.A. Limestone Cowboy)
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
The Blue Mask
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
The Invisible Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Small Change Gridwall
 36
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Erection or Ejection Gridwall
 41
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Death of a Sailsman Gridwall
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Beeline Gridwall
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gorillas in the Snow Apetizer Wall
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Apetizer Apetizer Wall
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Eating the Gun Apetizer Wall
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
This Must Be The Pickle Apetizer Wall
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Monkey Brains Apetizer Wall
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Atmosphere Apetizer Wall
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Ghost Dance (A.K.A. Limesto… Apetizer Wall
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Blue Mask Apetizer Wall
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Invisible Man Apetizer Wall
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Billboard »

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bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
In reality this is no more than a 20 minute hike- 15 if you're fit. Not a big deal at all. Jun 14, 2009
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area. This pullout is located about 100 yds down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (faint). If using the Ruckman guidebook, page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says "Little Mill Campground, one way" should say Saw Mill Picnic Area. Oct 31, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Jeremy's directions are spot on. The trail is pretty decent now, not sure what it was like 10 years ago but it's easy to follow now and like brad says, it's maybe 15-20 minutes, not 30-40 like ruckmans suggest. Had no problems finding the crag my first time Apr 18, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
One more thing on the hike...all the info here is spot on in relation to parking, trail distance, etc. I will add that after hiking 10 or so minutes you will come to a little slab area, keep going. We turned around thinking we had hit the wrong trail, then went back. We added a cairn for wayward peeps like us. Have fun...Cool Zone. Sep 6, 2016
What times does this crag go into the shade? I'm specifically asking for the grid wall, but I think they are similar. Ideas on times for summer and winter? Thanks! Sep 8, 2016

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