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Routes in Apetizer Wall

Apetizer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Atmosphere S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blue Mask, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Eating the Gun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ghost Dance (A.K.A. Limestone Cowboy) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gorillas in the Snow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Invisible Man, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Monkey Brains S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
One Half, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shining, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
This Must Be The Pickle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 2,782 total · 17/month
Shared By: Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This is the first of the true "cave" routes, and is one route to the right of "The Shining" (5.13c). Start up on sharp pockets climbing a tad right of the bolts, then step left and establish yourself under the first big overhang. Here the route starts to get hardish, with a very big reach off a not so good undercling...though there is more than one way to do this sequence. This will get you to a big horizontal break, and ready for even steeper climbing above. Surf up to a good right hand pocket, stuff your feet in the break, and get psyched to get pumped. The final headwall on great stone and cool pockets is a gas. There is a tickler finish. I called this route modified because of the obvious glued on "football" that you don't even need to use to get through the crux. WTF?

This route is great for American Fork.

Protection

Bolts. This route generally has fixed QDs.

Photos

You stand all over, toe hook, etc. the big glued-on "football" on The Shining. You don't really need it for the Pickle. May 2, 2005
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
the fixed draws at the crux are getting very worn Aug 10, 2011
Historical Note:

Bill kept waiting to establish a 5.13. He thought this was it. Turned out it wasn't. Hence the name. In Boyles lexicon a "pickle" was also a bolt. Aug 10, 2011
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
Bucc is that you luke?

Should definitely be noted that the quick link on the crux draw is halfway worn through so be careful Aug 11, 2011
bheller
SL UT
  5.13a
bheller   SL UT
  5.13a
Currently no issues with worn hardware or draws. Sharp holds and some awkward clipping stances keep it at 3 stars. Finish by techy climbing right off the shoebox or go big straight up. A step up in difficulty from Knuckle Up- 13a. Aug 30, 2014
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.12d
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.12d
I've seen a few "sends" lower from the Atmosphere anchors. The Pickle has it's own anchors. To reach them you have to negotiate a testy little slab section that moves right and up to chains that are at 1 o'clock from the Atmosphere anchor. Mar 24, 2017
slcpunk  
there is nothing about this that is 12d. May 1, 2018

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