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Routes in The Billboard

American Flyers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apetizer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Atmosphere S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beeline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Blue Mask, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bubba Gump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Death of a Sailsman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eating the Gun S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Erection or Ejection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ghost Dance (A.K.A. Limestone Cowboy) S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Gorillas in the Snow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gridlock S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Invisible Man, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Invitation to the Blues S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Monkey Brains S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Music for Chameleons S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shining, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Small Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This Must Be The Pickle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
To Hell on a Rocket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Bill Boyle, Boone Speed
Page Views: 1,909 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 30, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Right of the block is a vectorial line that crosses an overlap right off the ground, this is Death of a Sailsman. Continuous, slightly spooky climbing leads to the cruxy roof section just below the anchor. Hard to believe that Ruckman gave it only two stars. Continuous, tricky, vectorial climbing on great stone add up to a classic AF "a".

Protection

Seven or eight draws and a rope.

Photos

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
The bolts do have some space between them, but they are placed where you want them. The furthest run out is above the last bolt getting to the anchors. The last bolt is probably 10 feet below your feet when clipping the anchors. I think the crux is just below that last clip. Oct 31, 2011
Be prepared to climb between bolts. They are spaced! Aug 10, 2011