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The Anarchist
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.2 from 6
votes
Routes in Gridwall
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American Flyers S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Anarchist, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Beeline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bubba Gump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Death of a Sailsman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Erection or Ejection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gridlock S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Invitation to the Blues S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Music for Chameleons S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Small Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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To Hell on a Rocket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Darren Knezek |
| Page Views: | 789 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Oct 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
This forgotten route has an interesting history. Once an easier route named Operation Mindcrime, the bottom half of the route fell off in the Spring of 1991. Apparently, car sized rocks tumbled all the way to the road leaving a huge path of destruction along the hill side.
When the dust settled, the bottom was rebolted, and renamed The Anarchist. A scrappy, and varied route with some tough slab moves, cool limestone pockets, and a crux getting into a corner up high.
Begin with some powerful moves to a big pocket(might want to stick clip). Then dance up a tenuous slab with scant holds and feet to a nice set of pockets in a scoop. Follow decent pockets left, then back right towards the corner. A funky redpoint crux involving edges and palming gets you established in the corner where the difficulties ease up. Cruise up the corner for another bolt, then veer left onto the face for a few pumpy moves up a small corner before reaching the anchors.
Could be a nice route with some more traffic. For now, beware of loose rock and enjoy the adventure.
When the dust settled, the bottom was rebolted, and renamed The Anarchist. A scrappy, and varied route with some tough slab moves, cool limestone pockets, and a crux getting into a corner up high.
Begin with some powerful moves to a big pocket(might want to stick clip). Then dance up a tenuous slab with scant holds and feet to a nice set of pockets in a scoop. Follow decent pockets left, then back right towards the corner. A funky redpoint crux involving edges and palming gets you established in the corner where the difficulties ease up. Cruise up the corner for another bolt, then veer left onto the face for a few pumpy moves up a small corner before reaching the anchors.
Could be a nice route with some more traffic. For now, beware of loose rock and enjoy the adventure.
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