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Routes in Bingo Baby

40 oz to Freedom S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
48 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
An Affair to Remember S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beckoning Call, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bingo Baby S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Bringer of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chockdust Torture S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic Imperative S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gordon's Linkup S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gun in the Mouth Blues S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
If I Only Had a Brain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ivy Mike S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kodak Courage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Medulla Oblongata S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Milkmaid, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Remorse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Princess Di S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Protozoa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slopbuckets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tuba, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


This crag is just up canyon from the Membrane. It is sometimes called the Upper Membrane but Bingo Baby Wall is its original name. This area is completely shaded year round and has many classic routes that range from 5.10b to 5.13. Most of the grades are 5.12. There are 2-3 of every 5.12 grade at the crag so it is an awesome place to get some 12's under your belt!

Getting There

Park as for The Membrane about 1 mile past the National Monument visitors center. See the parking area here.

Cross the river (on a log with an overhead guide rope) and turn left on the trail (crossing a few timber steps).

Follow the trail as it meanders through the woods and heads downhill a little. You'll approach a short wall with a shallow cave to your right. Follow the trail (it is slightly indistinct at this point) left around the point of the wall and then head uphill on a steep, but well-built trail.

Bingo Baby is the obvious climbing area you will come to after steep switch backing for a while, followed by a slight downhill section as you cross a hanging gully, then up again to the wall.

Route List

Main wall, left to right:

1. Three Easy Pieces 5.11d
2. The Tuba 5.12b
3. Kodak Courage 5.12b
4. Foreplay 5.11c
5. The Beckoning Call 5.12a
6. Princess Di 5.12c
7. Slopbuckets 5.12b
8. Project
9. Bingo Baby 5.13c/d
10. Chockdust Torture 5.12c
11. Gordon's Linkup 5.12a
12. Bringer of Light 5.12a
13. If I Only Had a Brain 5.12b
14. Protozoa 5.11c
15. 40 oz to Freedom 5.12c

The following are on the ledge in the gully accessed with the fixed rope:

16. An Affair to Remember 5.12c/d
17. Gun in the Mouth Blues 5.12d
18. Medulla Oblongata 5.12b/c
19. 48 5.12c
20. Ivy Mike 5.12d

The following are on the slab in front of and to the right of the gully:

21. No Remorse 5.10b
22. Cosmic Imperative 5.11c
23. The Milkmaid 5.11b

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bingo Baby

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
I made a .docx file with the photos and a brief route description. I made it to be able to cut each pic, leave a tab on the left, staple them together and stuff them in your ruckman guide. Click download after clicking the link here and print them from Word, Google screws up the formatting on the last page if you print from their viewer. Bingo Baby Wall.docx Feb 24, 2010
thanks. that's nice. Feb 24, 2010
Anyone know anything about Medulla Oblongata or Cosmic Imperative? Most importantly rating. Sep 12, 2010
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
According to an older topo I have from several years ago Medulla Oblongata is .12b/c and Cosmic Imperative is .11c.

Note that a few of the grades listed in the topo are a letter grade different than what the grades listed here on MountainProject are; I don't know exactly what the current feeling is on those two particular routes. Sep 12, 2010

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