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Routes in The Watchtower

Barnacle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Billy Goat's Gruff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decades S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Domestic Tension S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Woman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let's Pretend S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mass Wasting S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Matilda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spawning S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spinoza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Step Right Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun King S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
To Kill a Chalkingbird S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasted and Wounded S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zanzibar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 2,218 total, 18/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Start pulling on a right facing flake (don't cheat by going right—use the flake) then clip the 2nd bolt with nice holds. Next, find your way to the only pocket on the climb—3rd bolt.

You get a huge rest at bolt 4, then come two beautiful pinchers at the small overhang - clip - then find the sidepull to a sloper to a crimper, reach for a nice right hold using the undercling after that you have easy climbing to the chains.

This climb has it all. It's solid 12a and simply beautiful.

Well protected except the last part going to the chains.

Location

This route is the 4th climb from the right on the south face of The WatchTower. Look for the right-facing, small flake feature for the start.

Protection

6 bolts to chains. There is a small runout to the chains but it's easy.

Photos

Joel Kushlan
Philadelphia, PA
 
Joel Kushlan   Philadelphia, PA
 
youtu.be/mwtKhiky-LM May 21, 2017
Lotapowder
Sandy
  5.12a
Lotapowder   Sandy
  5.12a
Get your tech on! This route is really fun edge climbing, not the typical AF pocket pulling. I think a hand hold has come off by the 3rd bolt.(Pretty hard slimper pull to get to "the pocket"). It's pretty in your face from the bottom to the top with a great campsite rest in the middle. Apr 22, 2016
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.12a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.12a
Very sustained 5.12a with technical face climbing. The rock is very clean, and the hand holds are quite obvious. The feet however are a little tricky and require constantly trying to discern potential foot holds out of the solid smooth look of the rock (atypical AF style). The are two cruxes, with the first one right off the ground all the way to the second bolt. The second crux is from the 4th to the 6th bolt, where you encounter some balancy clips. Oct 12, 2009