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Routes in The Watchtower

Barnacle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Billy Goat's Gruff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decades S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Domestic Tension S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Woman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let's Pretend S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mass Wasting S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Matilda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spawning S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spinoza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Step Right Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun King S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
To Kill a Chalkingbird S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasted and Wounded S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zanzibar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Doug Heinrich
Page Views: 130 total · 1/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Aug 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Good climbing on small edges through the first three bolts. Technical crux is probably clipping the second bolt and climbing through. Holds get a little better climbing above the third bolt.

Redpoint crux is probably going past the 4th bolt.

This route overhangs slightly throughout, so it doesn't give up on you until the very end. The chains are at the base of the "Watchtower".

An extension to this route or a 2nd pitch has been kicked around as an idea.


Sixth route on the wall going from right to left. Pass the big pine tree at the base of the cliff and up the uneven, rocky base. The climb starts below the big watchtower formation at the top that gives this wall its name.


5 bolts plus the chains.


Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
This climb has a very balancy first move then tic tacs up on edges with some more sloped holds. The real fun part for me was the undercling block with the right hand - moving feet up high and side step up to a nice hold with your left hand then clip. It is a fun climb, i do wish it was longer. we did it in the fall with wonderful temperatures with an unforgettable view. Nov 2, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
I thought this route was a lot of fun (of course, I had a lot of time to form that opinion - it took me a number of tries to redpoint it).

Fairly continuously difficult from the start to until just before the chains, it is much different from the more typical find-a-way-to-the-next-jug AF route. Oct 23, 2007