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Routes in The Watchtower

Barnacle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Billy Goat's Gruff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Decades S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Domestic Tension S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Woman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let's Pretend S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mass Wasting S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Matilda S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spawning S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spinoza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Step Right Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun King S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
To Kill a Chalkingbird S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasted and Wounded S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zanzibar S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Hansen
Page Views: 772 total · 6/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Aug 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This is the warmup route at The Watchtower for aspiring 5.11 climbers. Domestic Tension climbs up and to the right through 5 bolts to an anchor shared with Billy Goat's Gruff (.11a to the right).

While not difficult, the traverse can feel kind of tricky. It makes it easier if you stay low on the traverse going through the third bolt. The crux is just before the last bolt toward the end of the traverse and the transition to the small ledge just before the chains.

Location

2nd route on the wall going from right to left.

Protection

7 bolts plus the chains.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I thought this was considerably easier than 5.10a: I thought it was more like 5.8. I mantled onto a ledge and then traversed to the fourth bolt, maybe if you traverse below the ledge and then go up it's harder. Also, I clipped six bolts (the fifth was the penultimate bolt on Billy Goat's Gruff, but it was right in front of me).

Also, only one star from me for this route. But my partner said, "I liked that route. It was a great warmup." Of course, he likes anything. Oct 2, 2007

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