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Routes in Hard Rock

Beehive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Born Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cyberlag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreadlocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eight to Eleven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emotional Geometry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Firstborn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gas Boost S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juggernaut Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Late for Dinner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Many Options S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Platinum Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Primal Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Punch The Clock (Roof) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Quicker Picker Upper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockapella S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Six to Eleven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stoic Calculus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stump S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Suicide Blonde S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Teeanova S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Treehugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.10+ S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Roof Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vaporous Apparition S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vixen Blonde (aka Punch the Clock) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Fire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Unice
Page Views: 9,628 total, 77/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 3, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A long, mostly not-quite-vertical route on pockets and jugs, with two small roofs to pull through.

The rock is mostly solid, although there are hollow-sounding areas throughout most of the route. The psychological crux is the first, slightly intimidating roof (and that's probably the technical crux as well).

All in all, a fun climb, and long for a single-pitch sport route.

Take care while lowering or rappelling as a 60m rope is just barely long enough (with no stretch).

Location

Continue past the south face of Hard Rock for a couple of hundred feet. Winds of Fire is on a columnar-looking prow topped by a pointed roof.

Protection

10 bolts to double ring rap anchors with quicklinks. Actually, there are two sets of anchors: the rap anchors mentioned and some older chains above those.
Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Led this for the first time immediately after leading Vaporous Apparition for the first time, and personally think Winds of Fire is way more fun and actually has an easier (or at least more confidence inspiring) crux. Lots of fun moves with great pockets,cool exposure, better than average protection and a crux that definitely had me scratching my head. Also, beautiful rock, lots of calcite crystals tucked away inside many of the finger pockets and on the face of the rock near the uppper section. Definitely a new favorite, DO IT!! May 25, 2015
jeff p
Golden
  5.10a PG13
jeff p   Golden
  5.10a PG13
TOP 10 10a's of my life. it has exposure and length and views and a couple cool moves. Near hands free rests all the way up so you can really soak it in. The only tricky section for me was just over the mini roof, but with out that move it might not be 10a. Super classic and a confidence builder for the grade. Mar 13, 2015
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
One of the best 5.10's in the Wasatch for sure! A must do. I think 10a is spot on. None of the moves are particularly hard, but it is long for a sport route. I thought Punch the Clock (10a) and Treehugger (10b) around the corner were both harder than this. There was a lot of rope drag by the time I got to the top. Some long runners in the right spots would have probably helped. Jun 11, 2013
bmdhacks
5.10b
bmdhacks  
5.10b
If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine. Oct 4, 2012
Tanner Wise
  5.10b/c
Tanner Wise  
  5.10b/c
one of my favorite 10's in the canyon! the length, the variety, the rock quality, and the exposure made this climb awesome. I put it at around 5.10b/c May 26, 2011
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10a/b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10a/b
Hardest 10a I've been on in AF, it certainly makes the 10a to the west feel like a 5.9. The rock is much more featured than a lot of the surrounding walls and thus hides the holds quite well. I really enjoyed this route since it's different from most other AF routes. Yes there are occasional pockets as always, but there are a lot of crimps, flakes, and sketchy feet as well. The variety is great, especially with the several small roofs to pull over. The first half is nothing special, but the last half definitely makes this one worth it. Jun 7, 2009
Alec LaLonde
  5.10
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10
Classic -- best .10a in the canyon. There are some interesting routefinding problems; for the onsight it'll likely be harder than 10a. Awesome feature with the business right at the top. Get on it! Jun 16, 2008
Michael MacFadden  
  5.10b
This is a great route. There is some stemming, pockets, crimps, roofs, etc. The exposure is great as is the view from the top. Climb efficiently in the beginning because it just keeps going. Jun 15, 2008
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10c
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10c
This is a fabulous climb with lots to do on it. the roofs are the cruxes. pull them on small edges with tricky feet way off the ground. i'll say its 10c. Nov 13, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
For what it's worth, I'll note that one of my partners, who is a stronger sport climber than I, told me he thought this route is .10d. I think he's up in the night, but one more opinion can't hurt, right? Oct 28, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
jtwalter   Orem, UT
 
Rappelling this route is a good idea. There is some serious rope drag at the top and bottom if you lower off. Sep 24, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I thought this route's difficulty was probably more like 5.9, but it is in the Ruckman guide at 5.10...call it easy 5.10. Aug 4, 2007