Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Vince Adams
Page Views: 11,749 total · 61/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

213 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Classic AF limestone haul - who can forget the hype surrounding the one "big" feature 15 or so feet off the ground of License to Thrill. Since License went in, there have been many good limestone hauls established here and elsewhere, and nowadays it may be less of a thrill than it was a decade ago. Nonetheless, License is probably one of the not-to-miss classics at AF. I thought the crux was high, at or below the roof band where things are a bit spooky (there is a clip just over the roof, so don't give up!). Pumpy throughout.


Ten draws and a rope


Neal Carroll
Neal Carroll  
One of the few routes at American Fork that would be good at any climbing area in America. Classic. Oct 12, 2004
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
overhanging from the getgo. pockets lead to the roof with good holds then you get a great rest. the top section is more technical with some nice exposed climbing and reaches. Nov 11, 2007
Salt Lake, Utah
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
Uber classic line!!! Aug 6, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
Bad Sock Puppet  
Such a stellar climb and spot on for the grade! The climbing is steep and pumpy from the beginning all the way to the roof. There is a fantastic rest right under the roof. As soon as you commit to pull over the roof you'll come to another nice rest. The crux for me was as you begin to traverse right above the roof on a few slopey holds. The last clip is pretty much useless! A few of the pockets on the first half are fairly dirty. For 5.11 this is an AF must do!!! Jul 24, 2009
West Valley, UT
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
Amazing climb! One of the greatest lines I've done. Super pumpy! I'm excited to work on the redpoint. The holds are bomber through to the crux. The crux is a long reach off some slopers about 8' above the roof. Super classic climb! A must do! Jul 26, 2009
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
I agree with Neal's assessment that this climb would hold up at any climbing area. There's not a bad move on the thing or a crummy hold, just pumpy climbing pulling awesome, well-protected moves. I wish this thing was in my neighborhood, I would get as strong as a butter churning monkey. Dec 10, 2011
Bring 2 draws for the top or gear to tie through the chains and get lowered. Its perma drawed the whole route except the chains/anchor. Happy climbing this is a must climb!!! Sep 14, 2014
Tim Baird
Tim Baird   SLC, UT
Crazymonkey's note above is out of date. There are currently fixed biners on the chains, although they're a little awkward to clip when pumped! The route is very fun, not too crazy polished by AF standards, and totally worth a visit. Apr 22, 2018