Elevation: 3,567 ft
GPS: 46.538, -114.151 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 116,307 total · 869/month
Shared By: Dronocian on Sep 16, 2009 with 7 Suggestions
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer
Access Issue: Private Land: *******PERMIT REQUIRED****** Follow all rules outlined in the Kootenai Canyon main page description. *******PERMIT REQUIRED******* Details

Description

Kootenai Canyon (Permit Required)

Access Issue: Access to Kootenai Canyon REQUIRES a Daily Non-fee Permit
Access is contingent upon climbers being good stewards and obtaining a daily permit via e-mail at kootenaicanyon@yahoo.com (see below for information required). For the sake of the access privilege it is imperative that climbers follow this rule and obtain the daily permit. Climbers MUST NOT climb at Kootenai Canyon without a required daily non-fee permit per person in each group. This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit - this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges while controlling the impact on Kootenai Canyon caused by climbers, erosion, etc. Don't be selfish --  The owners frequent the canyon and will be enforcing permits. A permit may be obtained by e-mailing kootenaicanyon@yahoo.com. Note that you will need to pre plan as this e-mail will not be checked on a daily basis. Please provide the proposed date and the names of every individual in your party. Once you receive approval please print the approval out and carry it with you while climbing. If you do not receive an e-mail back that means you do not climb. The approval will be for the proposed date only from sunrise to sunset. If you are denied access for that particular day most likely too many requests have already been accepted prior to yours being submitted. Please do not put in a request unless you have full intention of climbing that day as numbers will be limited.

Climbing on private land is a privilege, not a right.  First Buttress, Second Buttress, Identity Wall, Sick Bay, Shuffle Buttress, Practice Rock, Spiderhang Buttress, adjacent rock outcrops, and access to Diving Board Wall and Outermost Limits in Kootenai Canyon are on private land. Please be respectful and a good steward of the property. Failure to follow the rules could lead the owners to ask you to leave the property.
  • For now, all bolting is suspended, pending review of current route development.
  • Do not access the tops of the cliffs by either trails or climbing. Routes such as Iron Monger and the Corner will now offer rap stations to return to the ground. To clarify, there is no walk off or setting up top ropes from the top of the cliff. Lower or rappel only on all routes.
  • No camping.
  • No fires.
  • No slacklining.
  • Please pack out both human and pet waste, along with any trash you produce or find.
  • Please remove personal quickdraws at the end of the climbing season and, on a daily basis, clean routes that are no longer in use.
  • Limit group size, do not "project" on busy days and do not monopolize popular routes, such as 11th Commandment and The Tempest.
  • No commercial guiding, including programs run by non-profit organizations.
  • Be mindful of erosion and use only existing trails to already established climbs. Stay off closed trails, especially the first trail leading up to the west end of First Buttress, and obey "No Trespassing" signs.
  • As with any climbing area, be respectful, polite, and helpful, especially to new climbers and those not familiar with the area.
  • A stick clip is recommended for those not familiar with the area.
  • For now, the area above the Corner on the First Buttress is closed due to erosion. That means that High Wire and Town Pump are closed until further notice.
  • Finally, please understand that if any climbing-related lawsuits are filed, the canyon will be closed to climbing.
Granite sport and trad climbing, mostly single pitch, but some multipitch too. Routes range from 5.6 to 5.13, and everything from crack climbing to steep roofs.This is the closest crag to Missoula and has very short approaches, nothing over 15 mins. The south side of the canyon is shady in the summer. The north side can get very hot. Something climbable in most seasons.

Getting There

Take Highway 93 south out of Missoula for about 25 miles. Just before entering Stevensville, take a right on Kootenai Creek Road. Follow this for a few miles to the trailhead parking lot. The main trail is located on the north side of the canyon. Most crags are on the north side, except Outermost Limits and Booty Buttress. Find the trails heading up from the main trail to get to the climbs.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kootenai Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Classic Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
The Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Pleasant Surprise
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Arms Race
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
11th Commandment
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Elmo
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 27
Flying Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
The Tempest
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Dude
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
A Rockwork Orange
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Venus De Milo
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 19
Club Foot
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Deep Fried Twinkies
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
The Barborist
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Off The Rails
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Classic Crack Identity Wall
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Corner First Buttress
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Pleasant Surprise Second Buttress
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Arms Race Identity Wall
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
11th Commandment First Buttress
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Elmo Outermost Limits
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Flying Time Second Buttress
 27
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Tempest First Buttress
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dude Identity Wall
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
A Rockwork Orange First Buttress
 10
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Venus De Milo Second Buttress
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Club Foot Sick Bay
 19
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Deep Fried Twinkies First Buttress
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Barborist First Buttress
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Off The Rails First Buttress
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Kootenai Canyon »

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