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Routes in Vector Madness Wall

Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Rising Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lack of Principle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, Aug. 2013
Page Views: 159 total, 3/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The pitch off the ground is short, but a 5.8-5.9 climber will find it packed: balancy face climbing on a blunt arĂȘte, a stimulating traverse over a drop-off, and a roof band with surprisingly good holds. (1) Climb the arĂȘte past three bolts to good cams. Continue up until possible to traverse right under and eventually over the roofband. Belay from the anchors for Vector Madness/Vertical Component (but keep in mind the swing potential for your second). 60 feet. (2) Step right and climb the headwall above to another set of anchors. 50 feet.

Location

Starts left and maybe 25 feet uphill of Vector Madness/Vertical Component. Rappel from chain anchors. 70 meter rope can get you down in one rap.

Protection

Draws and singles of nuts and cams to two inches.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
It would be tempting to go straight up and over the lip along the crack system that links the arete to the roof. However, there is hollow rock that needs cleaning. Be sure to go right at the base of the roof for really fun jug hauling. Aug 1, 2015