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Routes in Three Hour Buttress

Hall Pass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
StrikeSlip T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Hour Arete T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Minute Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 320 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Rick Ziegler and Austin Archer
Page Views: 1,568 total, 20/month
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on May 13, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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19 Opinions

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Description

Starts next to left facing corner, 15 feet right of The Three Hour Arete. Clean, bolt protected granite slab and edge climbing leads to a hand sized crack. Step left to a thin crack. Step left across an exposed slab, clip a bolt and pull devious 5.9 bulge to a bolted anchor.
P2 continues up a bolted slab, to finger crack. Continue up and right, to easy climbing in a blocky crack. Bolted belay left of the crack. (Can combine P1 and P2) A better variation clips the first two bolts on the slab, then heads up and slightly right to the bulge on Three Hour Arete. (5.8)
P3 starts up a lieback flake (gear). Step right, continue up to a bolted face crux series of moves to easier ground. Move left to a bolted belay (or continue up P4) 5.9
P4 From the sloping ledge, move up the steep, featured crack to a bolted anchor.
Gear: Doubles to #3 camalot. 5.8

Descent: 4 raps down the route with a single 70m OR 5 raps with a 60 m (first rap is a short rap to the top anchor of 3 Hour Arete)

Location

Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s
0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
10 minutes.

Protection

5 quickdraws. Gear: small - #3 camalot

Photos

BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
I did a combo version of this and the arete. I did not find any "devious" 5.9 bulge pulling to the anchors on pitch one, however. Leave the slick corner, gain nice thin crack, step left around the bush and pull up to the anchors. Way simple. The slick start is unnerving, however! Super climb.

BAd Oct 9, 2016
Vit
  5.8
Vit  
  5.8
The topo photo is off. Near the top of P1 go past bolt to anchor left of bush (5.8) Lots of loose blocks right of bush! P2 go straight up crack/broken face, do not trend right (5.7). P3 start up flake, clip bolt, then face climb up to anchor or step right to crack (5.8). P4 is a really fun 5.7. Sep 30, 2015
Dave Livingston
BISHOP
 
Dave Livingston   BISHOP
 
Best route in Pine Creek Canyon. Granted, I've only climbed ~ half-dozen, or so in the Canyon, nonetheless, its got good rock, fun moves and the last pitch is awesome... Jul 3, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
2 pitch direct Slipstrike/3 Hour Arete hybrid:
Combines the best moderate pitches of both routes. This is the best way to get the most bang for your buck out of this formation in our humble opinion, as well as the fastest option. (1) 70 meter rope absolutely necessary (as Todd noted above).

P1 Climb the slippery bolted dihedral to an obvious crack. Stay left of bush at bulge (gear protected) . Mantle bulge, clip long draw on the anchor and keep going! Stay left and climb directly up the the first face/arete (P2) of 3 Hour Arete. Belay at bolted anchor. 65 meters. 16 draws, gear to 1/2”.

P2. Head right up dicey lay-back flake (p3) of Slipstrike. Continue straight up the face left of the crack. 3 bolts and optional small gear to the base of the giant crack/gully. Ignore mussy anchor 20 feet to your left. Just keep going up rad, fun, easy crack! (Optional gear anchor at base of crack if you don't want to do the monster pitch).
69 meter pitch. Lots of friggin draws/runners. 2-3 #2s double mid-sized gear.

Descent: (1) 70 meter rope barely makes it to the first rappel ledge. You may have to rap off the ends to clip the anchor, (do the short rap to 3 Hour Arete anchors if this makes you nervous, or double ropes). 3 more raps get you to the base. Apr 19, 2015
Milo
 
Milo  
 
Way fun! Every bit as good as Big Deal! Dec 1, 2014
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.9
A good route, worth doing for the money pitch, #4. A single 70 will get you down to the belay at the top of pitch 3, but just barely. My safety knots were touching my rappel device as I was reaching to tether in. Probably safer to do the short rap to the top of 3hr Arete first. Mar 20, 2013
Update: This route is now 4 pitches in length. See topo. Dec 16, 2012
Slippery.... but good. The warm up with a slightly tricky bulge at the top Jun 12, 2011
Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Slippery! May 14, 2011