Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler
Page Views: 987 total · 11/month
Shared By: Rick Ziegler on May 13, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This route is an alternative to the 4th pitch of The Three Hour Arete. Climb the first 3 pitches of Three Hour Arete, clip the first bolt of pitch 4, then continue traversing left to an exposed roof. Pull the crux (5.10d) and continue up fun sport granite sport climbing to the anchors of Three Hour Arete.

Location

Approach: Park 0.6 miles past PrattÂ’s
0.6 miles up the road from Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
10 minutes.

Protection

12 Quickdraws.

Photos

Victor Lawson
Bishop, CA
 
Victor Lawson   Bishop, CA
 
In my opinion, the best pitch on the buttress (so far...) The rock might be better on other pitches, but the actual climbing and exposure outmatch everything else on in the 3 Hour Arete family. May 14, 2011
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
 
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
 
^^What Victor said...^^ Jun 18, 2011
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.10d
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.10d
This thing is awesome! Go do it! Very well protected with amazing movement and position. Oct 28, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10d
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10d
excellent pitch. rock quality is just fine, position and climbing are wonderful. better than the regular 4th pitch finish (which i gave 4 stars also ;-)

it is possible to do the traverse low (presumably most people climb it that way), but it's also possible to climb the traverse high (ie use the regular hand traverse rail for foot holds). this would be exciting on lead, but is really fun as a second.

unclipping the 3rd bolt after clipping the 4th bolt significantly reduces rope drag... Jun 24, 2017
Blurie .
San Diego, Ca
  5.10d
Blurie .   San Diego, Ca
  5.10d
Do it do it do it! Would've been a little disappointed with 3 hour arete without this pitch. Super fun technical traversing leads to easier but engaging climbing. Dec 31, 2017