Hidden Heavenly Slab Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
40.5792, -111.70289 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 24,814 total · 126/month |
Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Oct 13, 2008 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This might be the some of the best rock in Tanners. The low angle slab looks foreshortened from the ground, it's 200+ feet long and after that it rears up into a nice headwall in places. The features on this slab are amazing, it reminds me of the City of Rocks in places. Black streaks and patina abound on it.
This area holds moderate slab pitches and a few challenging sport pitches too. The belays are all on really cool ledges with awesome views down Tanners gulch and across the canyon.
Snowpack leaves dirt and rocks here and there down lower so be on your toes. The rock is broken at the bottom but seems to climb enjoyably.
Most of the routes on the right hand side (south) have sub-belays at a common ledge at about 30 feet up. This is so you can see and hear your leader. I recommend using it for the first few times up there,
The pine tree in the left hand corner on the slab had some webbing on it so tight I had a hard time getting my knife behind it to cut it loose as the bark was growing around it. The tree bears that webbing scar. This was one of two pieces of webbing we found in the canyon while climbing.
The entire area was put up ground first.
This area holds moderate slab pitches and a few challenging sport pitches too. The belays are all on really cool ledges with awesome views down Tanners gulch and across the canyon.
Snowpack leaves dirt and rocks here and there down lower so be on your toes. The rock is broken at the bottom but seems to climb enjoyably.
Most of the routes on the right hand side (south) have sub-belays at a common ledge at about 30 feet up. This is so you can see and hear your leader. I recommend using it for the first few times up there,
The pine tree in the left hand corner on the slab had some webbing on it so tight I had a hard time getting my knife behind it to cut it loose as the bark was growing around it. The tree bears that webbing scar. This was one of two pieces of webbing we found in the canyon while climbing.
The entire area was put up ground first.
Getting There
Hike all the way up the gulch. Passing Pirate Treasure is a obvious low angle slab with a steep broken start and a steep headwall with black streaks. This is the Hidden Heavenly Slab.
Classic Climbing Routes at Hidden Heavenly Slab
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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