Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gong Show Wall

Air Conditioner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Alpine Fracture Clinic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Anything Goes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barracuda T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brush Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carney Trash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicks With Guns T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D.M.Z. T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eavesdropping T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freakshow S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grab a Handful S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grainstem S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
He She S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hey! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Last Exit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Milky Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Never Say Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overexposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radioactive Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Schlitzy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Self-Contained Unit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Show Me the Monkey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sideshow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Social Climber T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Switch Hitter S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tripping Old Birds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wages of Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,956 total, 43/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on May 4, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1: Climb a fun crack system in the corner. Build a gear anchor on the slightly smaller, slightly higher of a couple of ledges.

P2: Move right across the face and follow another crack system up to a roof. Pass the roof, continue up a fun face, and build another anchor on slabby ledges. The first two pitches can be linked.

P3: Climb the two cracks on the left side of the slab (left one's wide) to a ledge. Turn right and climb more fun cracks to the top. Four other routes (including D.M.Z.) could be alternate final pitches. Access these by moving right across a ledge.

The best descent is to make 3 rappels with from the anchors atop Freakshow, about 30 feet to the right. This can be done with one 60m rope. If you choose to walk off to the right there are a lot of loose rocks on ledges, take care not to knock them on to climbers below.

Location

This is one of the first routes encountered after the approach trail drops you off at the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
After climbing pitch 3 you can hit the rappel anchors that are 30-40 feet over to the right. One single rope rap brings you back to the slaby ledge that you can traverse left across to the base of D.M.Z. Jun 7, 2017
timmaly
South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.8+
timmaly   South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.8+
Climbed this today and did the standard finish. Overall a really fun climb with some teriffic jamming. Thought P2 was a bit stiff for a 5.8. Opted for the 'walk off' and encountered two sections of fifth class down climbing in what is otherwise a large ledge. Jul 28, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
From the slabby ledge belay above pitch 2, instead of finishing with the awkward third pitch to the left, you can go straight up DMZ or traverse around to the right for Freakshow. The traverse is a bit sketchy, but protects fairly well with 2-3" gear, which you should have anyway. Jul 28, 2014
Pitch one is amazing. The three pitches can be done in two with a 60m rope. Nice belay ledge for optional first belay when using your 60m rope.

If you do not make it to the top of pitch three then make sure to have some webbing and a rap ring. There are two bail stations with lots of tat and old webbing but they made need some fresh webbing when you get there. Oct 14, 2013
Paisley Close
Mojave, CA
Paisley Close   Mojave, CA
Two slings and a rap ring are currently at the top of P1 in case you don't want to do all three pitches. They look to be in pretty decent shape and are slung around a chockstone Aug 14, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Climbed P1 and P2 and then D.M.Z (which was great and looked WAY better than P3!).

P1 is straightforward, if at bit awkward. I built the belay after stepping down to the ledge below the finger crack of P2.

P2 is a fun adventure. After the finger crack head straight up over the mini-roof with the hand crack, through a wide section with some sketchy flakes for handholds and then pull around the sweet roof. A long pitch and I wouldn't recommend it for the brand new 5.8 leader. I built a top belay right below the wide base of D.M.Z, as there weren't too many options for anchors on the slabby top out.

Standard rack (nuts and doubles of cams to #3). I had a #4 and placed it.

I won't rush back to do this route, but I'd probably do it again to get to D.M.Z and Freakshow. Jul 20, 2012