Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,157 total · 51/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on May 4, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Introduction

Although the entire cliff is named for the spectacular roof route, “The Gong Show” the route that gets far more attention is the three-pitch moderate classic, “The Main Attraction”. During the climbing season this route can see one or more parties a day; a testament to the quality of this beautiful crack climb. Bolted anchors have been added to the pitches, and the route has seen a substantial cleaning. These improvements have made this climb more enjoyable and helped solidify its rightful title as the “Main Attraction.”

Due to the nature of this cliff having quality crack systems all over the face in the general area of the route, the necessity for a fully detailed route description was obvious. Scott Ayers generously contributed this one. Although most parties have wandered off route on pitch 2, there are enough choices on pitches 1 and 3 to warrant close attention to following the correct line.

Location

The approach trail comes up to the cliff almost directly below the start of the route. At the lowest point of the cliff face look for a prominent right-facing corner. This corner begins above an alcove which is marked by a bolted line on its left side (the bolt hangers are not painted, but are very shiny). Start from a raised sandy ledge directly below the right-facing corner.

Description

Pitch 1 – Climb up easy cracks, bypassing a sage bush 15 feet up on the left, and continue to a stance just right of the prominent right-facing corner. Step left into the corner, and use multiple cracks to ascend this feature to reach a ledge with a two bolt anchor on the left wall. Do not continue up this corner system; do not go up to another bolted belay station 20 feet higher. 5.8, pro to 4”, 65 feet.

Pitch 2 – From the belay ledge, look down and right, to a ledge a few feet below. Above that ledge is a beautiful straight-in finger crack in an olivine colored wall. This finger crack is the start of the 2nd pitch. Climb the finger crack to an alcove about 25 feet higher. From this alcove, a set of cracks branches off: at a diagonal to the left, a prominent crack system going straight up and curving left, and a crack out right, around the corner. Take the main crack straight up heading towards the lowest large roof. This crack always has additional holds and features that allow moderate passage. Move out the left side of the roof to a stance below a cracked face. Do not head right (into a left-facing dihedral), but stay on the double cracks on the face to its left. At the top of this steep section the angle lessens; move up and left to the left side of the large recess, looking for a stance with a bolted anchor. 5.8, pro to 4”. 140 feet.

Pitch 3 – Step left into the chimney, using protection in the thinner crack to its right, and ascend this feature up to a ledge. This ledge contains vegetation, as well as some large blocks. Move right, to gain some smaller ledges at the base of an obvious wide crack in a corner. As attractive as this corner may look, it is not the remainder of the pitch (if this crack is followed to its end, there will be a huge block with slings around it). Instead move out right, to a crack that leans right. Continue up this crack, passing a loose but firmly wedged block stuck in the crack, to reach the left side of a flat ledge. Ten feet to the right is a set of belay/rappel anchors. 5.7, pro to 4”, 90 feet.

Final note: A route that was recently added to this section of the cliff, “Dirty Love” (5.9-, 3 pitches) starts about 30 feet to the right of the start of “Main Attraction”, but moves distinctly left, and crosses “Main Attraction” on the ledge at the base of the beautiful finger crack on pitch 2 of “Main Attraction”. At the left end of that ledge is a small corner, and this is used to ascend another 20 feet to reach a set of anchors found above the top of the first pitch of “Main Attraction”. This set of anchors is found in one of the photos for “Main Attraction”, and is likely the source of so many people getting off route. Once again; do not go to these anchors, as you will no longer be on the route “Main Attraction”.

Descent

Descent: Originally, this route was descended by a circuitous walk-off to the far right side of the cliff. In the 1990s a set of single-rope rappels were set up above the wall containing the route “Man Overboard”. The first of these rappels requires passing a sandy ledge below, and continuing to the anchors at the top of “Man Overboard”. When pulling the rope from the top anchor, the rope will invariably pile up on this ledge and shower sand and small rocks down on anyone below. Please be careful when using this set of rappels!

Depending upon if there is another climbing party coming up the route, it is possible to rappel the route “Main Attraction” from the belay anchors at the top of each pitch. This requires a 70 meter rope. It is recommended to avoid this set of rappels if another team is below.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot.

Photos