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Routes in Aqueduct Area, The

Aquaduck T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Burning Bits S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chinese Water Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chris' Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Standard T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dredging the Trench T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Free Lemmingwinks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lip Service T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poison Idea T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sockdollager T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Face TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Straight Talk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Submachine S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Subterrainian T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Terra Nova T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Whitewashed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Merrill Bitter, et. al.1984
Page Views: 178 total, 1/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 4, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Face climb on edges through fractures and broken cracks with great feet. Placing gear is a little pumpy. Don't get sucked left - head up and a little right, intersecting the little roof on the right. Seems like you wind up placing gear at your chest/waist a lot.

Protection

TCU's or aliens and cam's to #2 camalot. A double set of smaller gear is nice. You don't really need all of them, but the options are nice. You have to nail the gear but its all there and better than you think when you're standing on the ledge getting psyched to commit to starting. A proud, very worthy line.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
The protection, although pumpy to get in...is shite...

Sorry folks, but the rock quality on this route is sub-standard, and the highly fractured nature of the placements makes each questionable.

When I did this route, the pro was in the best places possible, but I would never trust a fall onto any of the pieces. Sure, you'll get those RP's in there, and you'll set those thin cams, but if you are maxing on .10d, then do not even think of leading this route.

The movement is great, and the holds are generally positive, so have at it... Apr 25, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Oh boy, the gear on this one is so funky to get to sit right. The climbing is not difficult, but its feels like 10d as you pump yourself silly trying to fandangle some small tcu into a horizontal. I felt good about most of the gear once it was cursed into place, but this isn't Goodros folks. The bottom section sews up well, but the top 30 feet on the lower angle section is R for sure, but felt about 5.8. Jun 28, 2012
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
  5.10d R
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
  5.10d R
A Merrill Bitter Classic!!
One of the best 5.10s in BCC! Oct 17, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.10d R
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10d R
Wow! What a lead Tenesmus. Not yet. A solid route with impeccably sharp edges and a nice pump to boot. I'll go back for my lead. Apr 23, 2006