Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Aquaduck

5.10d R, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 23 votes
FA: Merrill Bitter, et. al.1984
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Aqueduct Area, The

Description

Face climb on edges through fractures and broken cracks with great feet. Placing gear is a little pumpy. Don't get sucked left - head up and a little right, intersecting the little roof on the right. Seems like you wind up placing gear at your chest/waist a lot.

Protection

TCU's or aliens and cam's to #2 camalot. A double set of smaller gear is nice. You don't really need all of them, but the options are nice. You have to nail the gear but its all there and better than you think when you're standing on the ledge getting psyched to commit to starting. A proud, very worthy line.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

James nearing the top of this uber BCC Classic
[Hide Photo] James nearing the top of this uber BCC Classic
James on one of the Trilogy
[Hide Photo] James on one of the Trilogy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10d R
[Hide Comment] Wow! What a lead Tenesmus. Not yet. A solid route with impeccably sharp edges and a nice pump to boot. I'll go back for my lead. Apr 23, 2006
Aaron Collins
Mesa, Az
  5.10d R
[Hide Comment] A Merrill Bitter Classic!!
One of the best 5.10s in BCC! Oct 17, 2008
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
 
[Hide Comment] Oh boy, the gear on this one is so funky to get to sit right. The climbing is not difficult, but its feels like 10d as you pump yourself silly trying to fandangle some small tcu into a horizontal. I felt good about most of the gear once it was cursed into place, but this isn't Goodros folks. The bottom section sews up well, but the top 30 feet on the lower angle section is R for sure, but felt about 5.8. Jun 28, 2012
dnaiscool
 
[Hide Comment] The protection, although pumpy to get in...is shite...

Sorry folks, but the rock quality on this route is sub-standard, and the highly fractured nature of the placements makes each questionable.

When I did this route, the pro was in the best places possible, but I would never trust a fall onto any of the pieces. Sure, you'll get those RP's in there, and you'll set those thin cams, but if you are maxing on .10d, then do not even think of leading this route.

The movement is great, and the holds are generally positive, so have at it... Apr 25, 2015
NicholasKoch
 
[Hide Comment] Hey all, so I climbed this today, and noticed some discrepancies between descriptions of the start of this route.

The photos in the area page suggest that the route starts beneath the big roof of Terra Nova, while photos on this page and the Ruckman guide suggest that the route starts on thin seams and cracks close to Poison Idea. Both definitely go, and the roof start is more spicy and difficult. Have fun! May 19, 2019
tenesmus
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I agree with NicholasK about the confusing controversy about the start of Aquaduck vs Poison Idea.

We only had the Ruckman Guide for reference when I did this and when I wrote the description. While it does look cool to start on the roof to the right, the Ruckman topo shows the route starting on the thin seams in the middle of that face. Pretty much exactly where Poison Idea was installed.

Just for kicks, the Ruckman description says, "Down low on the south face is a large roof. Aquaduck climbs the smooth face to the left of this roof. It looks horrible, but for the competent leader, it is well worth the effort. The protection, although perfectly adequate, is pumping to place," including all their commas. May 20, 2019