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Routes in Unknown Pleasures

Leapin' Lizards S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Oni S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharkfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Touch of Grey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Pleasures S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 551 total, 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

An airy, enjoyable jaunt up a corner, with plenty of stemming plus a few liebacking moves.

Start up the broken, blocky rock at the base to a ledge. Clip the first bolt and head up and left to find the second bolt (on the protrusion to your left).

Surmount the protrusion and head up to get established in the corner. Fun stemming with an occasionally trick move or two leads to a slightly awkward bulge right before the chains.

There are several places near the beginning that are Do Not Fall Zones. So don't.

Location

Up the corner to the left of the obvious, east-facing wall that you see when you first arrive at the crag.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Yeah, I should note that I thought it was more like .10a as well, although I specified .10c because that is the guidebook rating. May 22, 2012
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10a
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10a
I climb for fun routes like this one! So fun! The Ruckman Guide lists this route as 5.10c but it is really more like 5.10a, easier than Leapin' Lizards 5.10b for sure. May 22, 2012