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Routes in Teepe Pillar

D is for Dizzle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
West Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Description

Several routes can be found on this prominant tooth-like rock. Overshadowed by the Grand Teton, this very secluded peak is representative of typical high quality Teton granite. It offers excellent exposure and has quite an airy view of Garnet Canyon and the surrounding peaks. Routes vary from low to moderate and it stands approx. 200 ft high above the ridge from which it sprouts.

Getting There

There are two options that I know of. There is a direct approach from the Middle Teton glacier moraine, or you can hike to the base from the Lower Saddle of the Grand.

From the Lower Saddle, hike up the base of the Grand to the Black Dike and traverse east passing below the starts for the Lower Exum, Petzoldt Ridge, and Stettner Couloir. Once passing the Stettner Couloir, decsend down the steep gully and head out onto the ridge to the base of the Pillar.
(I can only comment on this approach as was the only way I reached it.)

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Classic Climbing Routes at Teepe Pillar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
West Face
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Face
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
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Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The Jackson Hole Mtn Guide's Hut is below Teepee Pillar. From above Petzoldt's Caves on the standard approach, break right and strenuously upward up an endless scree slope, pass the hut, then ascend the Teepee "glacier" to the col north of Teepee Pillar. This is no problem except that it usually requires an ice axe. It doesn't have any crevasses. Apr 4, 2007
Jake Stabile
Nashua,N.H.
Jake Stabile   Nashua,N.H.
Approach via Teepee glacier is a very concise way to reach the pillar; as I did to start the dir S. ridge(5.7)of Teepee . I have also taken the Teepee Glacier approach to reach the Petzoldt dir another time to the East face of the Grand. Unless you are doing a 1 day trip I suggest spending the night at the Moraine then form there head up the path to the JHMG hut then up the glacier. Nov 21, 2007
FA of the North Face by Ken Weeks and Yvon Chouinard on July 21, 1959 as cited in the 1959 edition of the AAC. Nov 6, 2017

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