Jesse Ryan > Comments
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Sep 6, 2021
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In response about the name, if I remember properly, and correct me if I am wrong, acronym for: Old Derek an…
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Oct 27, 2018
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Really great route, with fun movement throughout!
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Oct 27, 2018
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Could use some traffic and or a brushing.
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Oct 27, 2018
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I know it is stated, or at least inferred in the route description, but let me reemphasize the point. Belay…
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Nov 23, 2016
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Fairfield has about the same southerly aspect as the main wall with a lot of sun. Portions of the eastern F…
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Jun 23, 2016
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Definitively WY 131 (aka Sinks Canyon Rd). I fixed the GPS.
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Feb 11, 2016
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vimeo.com/154950129
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Feb 10, 2016
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First ascent: Steve Mammen. Done before Moon arete. FYI, originally called Haley's Arete, but Steve's ok wi…
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Feb 10, 2016
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I'm only tentatively adding this as a first ascent. I know Rotary is pretty scoured. I asked Mammen about t…
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Nov 18, 2015
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If you rate routes based on hardest moves it clocks in around modern 5.11d for one move (V4?), if you disco…
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Nov 18, 2015
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Only 5.9+ in the Fred Becky boulder start sort of way. As in after the boulder problem, yes it is 5.9.
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Dec 13, 2012
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Per the broken hold, I've changed the grade. I think either the now worse block start, or the left crimps,…
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Jan 19, 2012
N America
> …
1
> Squamish
> Stawamus Chief
> Grand Wall Area
> Grand Wall (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0)
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Nice!
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Mar 30, 2011
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Not sure if this is consensus, but the start I used was about 7 feet left of the standard start of Potato C…
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Nov 5, 2010
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Agree with the quality and preserving this route's nature as is, BUT I know of folks who hobbled away from…
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Jul 8, 2010
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Wonderful capture - well lit. I can feel the texture of the rock. Love the Voo!
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Apr 19, 2010
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This is the Upper Echelon Wall in the Triple Tier Area as described in Leubben, Cross, and Scott's guide (N…
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Sep 14, 2009
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Very Nice Climb. I felt the intro slab had thin holds, but good enough feet that I would grade in the mid…
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Feb 23, 2009
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Super duper trick beta in the second paragraph for the crux pod - do not read ahead if you want the true on…
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Nov 22, 2008
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Crux crimp broke this summer. Have not been on it since, likely harder now.
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Oct 4, 2008
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The starting flake did break. I noticed this June '08. The position for the hands seems pretty similar, bu…
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Aug 3, 2007
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EKV starts with nice climbing along a 'slabby' prow. The angle kicks back on jugs. Fairly easy (but pumpy…
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Jul 6, 2007
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When was this taken? Cool composition!
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Sep 19, 2006
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Great Line. A little spicy clipping some of the early clips off of the poor feet. Real fun laybacking, so…
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Sep 19, 2006
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Bouldery, fun, hard to read.
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Sep 19, 2006
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Decent line. Bouldery. Found it hard to read.
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Sep 19, 2006
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One of the best routes at the Iris of any grade and the best 11b hands down. Get on it! Love the two styl…
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Sep 19, 2006
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Great! 2nd Andy's Comments on the clipping the anchors, and I'm just over 5'9".
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Sep 19, 2006
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Great line -- 11 enduro climbing
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Sep 19, 2006
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Great line, has hard moves for a low 10 leader trying to warm up. Big moves.
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Sep 7, 2006
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On the grade: The lower crux was on par but a tad easier than the crux on Twitch in Clear Creek. Obviously…
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Sep 7, 2006
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Since the Kahuna Pillar is adjacent to the new routes and the Trunk Corner, I'll add some of those routes h…
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Sep 7, 2006
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Really fun set of pitches. Thought the 2nd could be a bit scary for a 5.9 leader -- was a bit dirty and a…
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Sep 7, 2006
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Move Me to the Munitions Roof section!
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Sep 5, 2006
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One can also approach the FCR via the upper pullout - the one with the bovine management placard. Cross th…
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Aug 18, 2006
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Bug Squad is as fun on TR as Max Factor. Leading Bug Squad can be rewarding. It can also induce puckering…
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