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Routes in Warm Up Wall

Black Rainbow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coin Operated Space Cruiser S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Lame-O S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Princess, I Wanna Lay-Ya. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skywalker S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alison Coin
Page Views: 454 total, 6/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

The best 5.9+ in the canyon that isn't a slab named Dragonfly. This climb is awesome! One of the premier intermediate climbs in the galaxy! This limestone gem has a fingerbanging start right off the deck that sends many young Padwans crying home to mama. Stick with your training, because right after cranking through the initial tendon tearing monos, this climb is nothing but jugs, jugs, jugs!

Speaking of jugs, did you know that George Lucas had Carrie Fischer wrap hers up with ace bandages in the very first movie since he didn't want any jiggling happening in the Empire?

This route gets overhung about halfway through and requires navigating through an asteroid field of hidden, but HUGE holds.

The best thing to do is just keep climbing and keep reaching for something! The holds are all there you just gotta get your hands and feet on em' before the pump wears you out like S&M night at the Death Star's disco. I've heard it can get pretty wild down there and everyone is wearing a mask.

Location

Two climbs are partnered up on The Warm-Up Wall. The one of the left is the princess. See photo.

Protection

8 bolts. Open shut anchors. Just do us all a favor and stick clip the first bolt!

Photos

Jesse Ryan
  5.10b
Jesse Ryan  
  5.10b
Only 5.9+ in the Fred Becky boulder start sort of way. As in after the boulder problem, yes it is 5.9. Nov 18, 2015
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
brutal finger wrecking start. not the best warmup, but good route. can also be seepy in wet weather. start is really hard when wet. Jun 15, 2015
Nathan D Johnson
  5.10a/b
Nathan D Johnson  
  5.10a/b
Opening moves seemed harder than 5.9+, but then it's 5.fun to the top! Aug 19, 2014