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Routes in Zorro Area

Chapito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chico S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cirque du Sauve S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewenanimity S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gaucho S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guns I'll Never Own, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hangman, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Huggys Pull-up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Sport S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Poposer Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Wipe aWhet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zorro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,819 total, 35/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jul 13, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


118 Opinions

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Description

This is my favorite 5.10 route at Wild Iris. The route consists of big moves between large pockets on an overhanging wall. This pumpy route ends at a small ledge, with a difficult move to clip the anchor. Being tall helps...

Location

Gaucho is the right most route on the main wall. There is a new route to the right on the arete. Zorro (5.11d) follows the black streak just to the left.

Protection

7-8 bolts
Neil Wachowski
Fort Collins, CO
 
Neil Wachowski   Fort Collins, CO
 
Great route. When I was here, it appeared that someone had drawn huge arrows pointing to obvious holds using blue, pink, and green sidewalk chalk. Come on folks... Sep 28, 2015
Rob Phillips
  5.10c/d
Rob Phillips  
  5.10c/d
I just climbed Gaucho this past weekend (8/11/13) and noticed the block that "LauraK" mentioned in 2011. The block is still there, but I agree that it looks pretty sketchy. I avoided it, which was not hard to do. An outstanding route for the grade!!! Aug 13, 2013
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
definitely agree it helps to have alittle extra arm reach, found it strenuous to clip a couple of the bolts not being able to reach the solid pockets up above, but overall great climbing Oct 17, 2012
Cocanower
The High Country
Cocanower   The High Country
Insanely awesome route! Must do! Sep 28, 2012
LauraK  
Last weekend was my first time climbing Gaucho. I noticed about 3/4 of the way to the anchor a (somewhat) large rock that could potentially come loose. It concerned me because it is big enough to hurt someone and weighted to move through the section. To avoid pulling on it you can use a well connected pocket on the left side, but then it is easy to step on the block 2 moves later. Looks like many people have judging by the rubber marks on it. Is this how the block has always looked? I realize rock climbing is hazardous and always has the potential for rock fall, but I am wondering if this block was noticed by anyone else? I will try to avoid weighting it if I do this route again!
Otherwise, the most beautiful route! Jul 27, 2011
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
The old set-up was the chains directly on the bolts, held on with washers, no hangers. The chains were worn down at the rope end of things, not terribly bad, but about 1/4 of the way through. The worst were the bolts, Rawl 3 piece. The sleeves were sticking out of the hole about 1/4" and it didn't take any effort at all to break the threads loose with my vise grips. Usually it's an effort. The shafts had some corrosion as well and the washers holding the chains were bent outwards. A lot of use on those babies over the years, especially since it's a free hang to the ground off the anchor, putting a lot of direct force on the system. They gave both Vogel and I the heebie-geebies last week when we did Gaucho so it was time. Thanks to BARF!
It should be noted that in the early 90s, we didn't have all these nice anchor systems to choose from. So there was a lot of experimentation going on, and chains were thought to be pretty okay. Rawl 3 piece have about a 10 year life span, so having lasted 20 years up there without failing under load testifys to a quality placement job by the first ascentionist. Oct 5, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Thanks Bob! Oct 5, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10c/d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10c/d
Hi Bob,
Thanks for putting in the time, money, and effort (...or hopefully BARF paid for the hardware).

Exactly how bad were the chains? I don't remember the setup at the top...it didn't happen to be one of those deals where the chains were simply bolted to the cliff? (i.e. no hanger, just a bolt with a couple of washers to hold the chain on) Oct 4, 2010
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
On 10/4/10, I replaced the anchor on Gaucho with Fixx rings and pulled the old chains. If you saw how bad those bolts and chains were, you would have never clipped them. Wow. I also dropped the anchor level about two feet so that us mere mortals can clip the anchor without it being the crux of the climb. Oct 4, 2010
I'll second Matt's comment. I lead Zorro after this (onsight) and I was definitely more pumped on Gaucho! I tried to climb around (onto Zorro) to clip the chains, but alas, there are no holds up there! At 5'6", it was sure a crank to clip those chains that were swinging in the breeze. Aug 23, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10c/d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10c/d
FA Steve Scott 1991 Jul 3, 2010
Rachel Drayer
Lander, WY
Rachel Drayer   Lander, WY
I'm only 5'4" and didn't have a prayer at hitting the chains from those small pockets. I desperately held onto some small crimp and said a quick prayer before clipping the chains. Super fun and pumpy though! Sep 12, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Great stuff. I thought it was a lot like Zorro but with slightly bigger holds. I agree regarding the anchors, they should've been placed about a foot lower. Aug 20, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
This route really seems to play to my weaknesses. It's all there - big moves to nice pockets on a bulgy face. I really don't think this is much easier than Zorro; but then again, I didn't attempt to lead Zorro. Aug 17, 2008
Jesse Ryan
  5.10d
Jesse Ryan  
  5.10d
Great! 2nd Andy's Comments on the clipping the anchors, and I'm just over 5'9". Sep 19, 2006
stellar Aug 20, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10d
I'm only 5'8, and I definitely found clipping the anchors tough! Fortunately you can hang out on a small ledge and thrutch while trying to clip them like I did....

Pumpy route for sure! Jul 13, 2006