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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon

Analog V8-9 7B+
Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chitty Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Digital V6 7A
Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Moonrise Variation (Moontide?) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moontide T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turtle Rock Summit Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

In central Vedauwoo with a very nice 20 minute approach. Area classics reside here such as: Straight and Narrow, Moontide, and Blade Runner. Blade Runner is an amazing thin dihedral, more reminiscent of Eldorado than Vedauwoo, it is one of the best 5.11 pitches in the area with two very distinct crux sections. All routes are cracks, there are no bolted routes in this area that I know of. This is a nice secluded setting with excellent views of Jurassic Park, Valley Massif, and the Blair areas. The routes face West and Northwest.

As of 6/07, there are new Fixe rappel stations at the tops of Blade Runner, Moontide, and Straight and Narrow/Master of Sport. All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope.

Getting There

Park at the Box Canyon trailhead in central Vedauwoo. Walk up the paved walking trail to the North for maybe 200 yards. The pavement will end, but you can stay on a maintained trail that winds up using wooden stairs and walkways over the boulders. Looking to the North, you will see Glen Dome directly in front of you and Turtle Rock to the East of it. Get off the maintained trail, and head for the saddle between Glen Dome and Turtle Rock Land of the Rising Moon is on the back side of Turtle Rock. After scrambling up into the saddle between the two formations, head up slabs and boulders to the East. You will see the wall as you go up the slabs. The obvious crack of Straight and Narrow will be the first route you come to.

Per bart cubrich 1: if you follow the paved path in box canyon to where it turns to gravel, you will see two saddles and three domes in front of you. The domes are Hassler's Hatbox on your left, Glenn Dome in the middle, and part of Turtle Rock on your left. You want to take the right saddle, the one between Glenn Dome and Turtle Rock. The easiest thing to do is follow the way up to the wooden staircase, then take a right. You will see a large face with almost no lichen on it, which is the Land of the Rising Moon.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Land of the Rising Moon

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In response to how to get here: I found the directions tricky as well, not knowing what Glenn Dome was made it especially difficult. If you follow the paved path in box canyon to where it turns to gravel, you will see two saddles and three domes in front of you. The domes are Hastler' Hatbox on your left, Glenn Dome in the middle, and part of Turtle Rock on your left. You want to take the right saddle, the one between Glenn Dome and Turtle Rock. The easiest thing to do is follow the way up to the wooden staircase, then take a right. You will see a large face with almost no lichen on it, which is the Land of the Rising Moon. Jun 11, 2016

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