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Routes in Rode Hard Wall

Arizona Cowgirl S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Belle Star S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Buckskin Billy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Copenhagen Angel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cowboy Joe S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ridin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nine Horse Johnson S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Phony Express S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rode Hard and Put Up Wet S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tomahawk Slam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wind and Rattlesnakes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Windy West S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,821 total, 16/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Aug 11, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Sustained hard burly climbing!!! Climb the vertical face which was much harder than I expected (felt like 12a to me) past three bolts. The hardest moves are between the second and third bolt with some good air time if you blow it.

Make a desperate clip behind your head on the roof and get ready for a fight. Good holds allow you to clip one more bolt before the big crux move. The guide book mentions something about a figure four which I actually tried to no a vale. I finally just got as high as I could and tossed for the ticked hold over the roof which is pretty good if you hit it right.

This route is an amazing endurance power test piece and a must do if your feeling strong.

Location

This route is located right in the center of the Rode Hard wall overhang.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
I would agree with Jesse that the vertical bottom half of the route was mid 11; it just feels harder because you have to climb through some thinner pockets before the third clip where the fall would be airy. I thought the vertical pocket pulling was fun, but I wasn't a huge fan of the roof portion of the route. I much prefer Burnt Beans at the grade.

Edit: ...oh yes, and I forgot to add... FA Todd Skinner Jul 13, 2010
Jesse Ryan
  5.12c
Jesse Ryan  
  5.12c
Very Nice Climb. I felt the intro slab had thin holds, but good enough feet that I would grade in the mid 11 range. The upper crux felt like a two bolt boulder problem. I wouldn't call the route sustained, mainly powerful. I tend to enjoy sustained routes like the nearby Wind and Rattlesnakes, but the great movement on this route make it a crag classic at the grade. Sep 14, 2009