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Areas in Lander Area

Baldwin Creek 0 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Fossil Hill 0 / 35 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Ghost Town, The 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Miner's Delight 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Rock Shop, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Sinks Canyon 28 / 468 / 3 / 49 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 545
Strawberry Roan, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Suicide Point 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Sweat Lodge, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Wild Iris 0 / 281 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 283
Wolf Point 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Description

Lander is home to several cliffs dispersed throughout the foothills of the southeastern Wind River Mountains. The rock is mainly Bighorn Dolomite and occurs in two basic types. There are wind eroded buttresses like those of Wild Iris and Suicide Point, and there are walls lining the sides of canyons, such as Sinks Canyon and Wolf Point. The rock varies in quality from very good to very featured and consists mainly of crimps and positive pockets, some being as small as one-finger monos on the more difficult lines.

There is a bit of granite climbing as well, the Joint Wall and the Sanctuary at the top of Sinks Canyon being two areas that have about 50 sport climbs all together. There are some fantastic routes on these cliffs if you get tired of pocket pulling. Sinks also has some sandy sandstone at the entrance of the canyon, but it is not worth your time unless you are on a NOLS course or like insecure trad climbing.

It is possible to climb throughout much of the year here. Sinks is the best winter area, with a paved approach and an inversion that keeps the wall toasty when it is freezing in town. It is not uncommon to climb in a t-shirt on sunny days in January and February when the temperature in town is 10 degrees. Summer is better spent at Wild Iris and its surrounding crags as they are much higher in elevation, and mainly under snow in the winter. Spring is sometimes great but often snowy and wet. Fall is the best time for climbing in Lander, with crisp temps, sunny skies, and access to every crag here.

Steve Bechtel's guidebook does a great job of describing the sport routes around Lander and is the best resource for any climber visiting the area. It describes the following cliffs:

Sinks Canyon
Fairfield Hill
Fossil Hill
Wild Iris (OK Corral, Main Wall, Erratic/Remuda, Aspen Glades, and North Country)
Miner's Delight
The Strawberry Roan
The Sweat Lodge
Wolf Point
Wolf Pup
Baldwin Creek
Suicide Point

There are several other cliffs that are either very sparsely developed, are under development, or that have sensitive access issues and as such are not included in the current guide. There are also some seasonal road closures and occasional route or crag closures that need to be heeded.  Please check with locals (Wild Iris Mountain Sports, WyoClimbers advocacy organization, or forums here) if you have questions about current access to an area.

The bouldering around Lander is getting more and more developed each year. There is a limited selection of sandstone and dolomite bouldering in the heart of Sinks Canyon. The Cabin Boulders at Bruce's Bridge in Sinks is a small granite garden that is good for a short session. The Loop Road above Sinks has several small areas that can be fun in the summer. The Rock Shop on South Pass has a good, although spread out, selection of gneiss rock. Some of these, like the UFO boulder and the Lander Boulder are world class. There are also two great areas a little further afield, both approached on the road to Dickenson Park above Ft. Washakie. These are the Devil's Kitchen and the Falcon's Lair. You need a Wind River Indian Reservation permit to be able to access either of these places. These can be obtained in several locations in Lander, including the Wild Iris shop. David Lloyd's guidebook Bouldering in the Wind River Range is the best resource for any pad people wanting to check out the pebble wrestling here.

Also check out Sam Lightner's site landerclimbingweather.com for up to date forecasts for specific cliffs.

Getting There

Lander is located in central Wyoming, easily found on the map. There is free camping in Lander at the City Park for 3 days. It is also the main venue for the International Climbers' Festival (www.climbersfestival.org), held every summer on the weekend following the Fourth of July.

Gear can be found at Wild Iris Mountain Sports on Main Street in town. NOLS is headquartered in Lander and also has a small gear store. There are several places to eat breakfast and lunch. The best for climbers are The Middle Fork, the Lander Bakery, and the Crux Coffee Shop, all on Main Street.

The Cowfish is the best upscale dinner joint and the Gannett Grill/Lander Bar is a must visit for any traveler, climber or otherwise. Both of these fine establishments are owned by a climber.

950 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lander Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 198
La Vaca Peligrosa
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 121
More Funky Than Gunky
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 279
Red Rider
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 165
Take Your Hat Off
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 88
Boob Loob
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 217
Claim Jumper
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 144
Gaucho
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 113
The Devil Wears Spurs
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 111
Wotai
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 210
Winchester Pump
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 202
Tribal War
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 146
Zorro
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 146
Wind and Rattlesnakes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 101
Hot Tamale Baby
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 72
Choke Cherry Eyes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Vaca Peligrosa Wild Iris > OK Corral > Right Side
 198
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
More Funky Than Gunky Sinks Canyon > Camel Jockey
 121
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Red Rider Wild Iris > OK Corral > Central (Blooming Ros…
 279
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Take Your Hat Off Wild Iris > Main Wall > Cowboy Poetry
 165
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Boob Loob Wild Iris > OK Corral > Right Side
 88
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Claim Jumper Wild Iris > OK Corral > Central (Blooming Ros…
 217
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Gaucho Wild Iris > Zorro Area
 144
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Devil Wears Spurs Wild Iris > Main Wall > Wild Horses Wall
 113
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wotai Wild Iris > Erratic
 111
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Winchester Pump Wild Iris > OK Corral > Central (Blooming Ros…
 210
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tribal War Wild Iris > OK Corral > Left Side (Tribal War…
 202
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Zorro Wild Iris > Zorro Area
 146
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Wind and Rattlesnakes Wild Iris > Main Wall > Rode Hard Wall
 146
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hot Tamale Baby Wild Iris > Main Wall > Hot Tamale Wall
 101
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Choke Cherry Eyes Wild Iris > Aspen Glade > Cowboy King Wall
 72
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lander Area »

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Is there a new guidebook available? I have the 2011 edition. Mar 24, 2015
Taylor Currier
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Taylor Currier   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Hey Tom. I am planning on spending time at the Climbers Festival this summer. Will a new guide book be published by that time? I want to pick up a copy and start dreaming about all those pockets. May 26, 2015
Is North Country included in the new Lander guidebook. Jun 13, 2015
The new guide does not include the North Country. The parking access is very tenuous at that particular cliff and the Forest Service has had problems with too many cars parked there. Until a better solution is found, it has been decided not to put the cliff in the guidebook so as to limit traffic at the area and not jeoparize the access we now have. Jun 13, 2015
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Wild iris is typically inaccessible without a snow mobile until the winter snows recede.
Killer cave, in sinks, being south facing, can have warm days year-round. That said, you'll want clear, warm-ish winter days. 45 and cloudy/windy will be intolerable. 45, sunny, and calm will be the best day of your life. Feb 12, 2016

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