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Routes in Right Side

"R" is for Redneck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
30 Seconds on Fremont Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in the Saddle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boob Loob S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Britchen Strap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bull of the West S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Slate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diamonds and Rain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Sally S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drinking Dry Clouds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Duke, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guns of Diablo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hangin' Tree S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imagine What I Could Do to Your Face S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
John Wayne S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
La Vaca Peligrosa S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Licorice Stick S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nouveau Western S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pistol and Holster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pronghorn Pinnacle S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ride Me Cowgirl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rio Bravo S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rodeo Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rooster Cogburn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Saddle Tramp S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saddle Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saddled Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slave S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solace of Bolted Faces, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugar Foot S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ticks for chicks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Western Grip S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When the Man Comes Around S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Whips Chaps and Chains S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wrong End of a Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
a man from laramie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
wind river muzzel loaders S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,438 total, 24/month
Shared By: Bumpas on Aug 15, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful clean white face. You can look at this climb and see everything in front of you. Beautiful long moves to deep pockets for your clips. Super fun climb.

Location

Right of Boob Loob on a very nice clean face with a large pocket at second bolt.

Protection

4 bolts cold shut anchors.

Photos

Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
AGREED with some of the other comments. Granted, I'm not a great technical climber, but I've sent plenty in the 12a-b/c range, and this took me the most tries of any route I've ever sent. Having great technique should be a great help on this route, not a reason to sandbag others ;) Jun 26, 2017
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Balancey, insecure, and sequential long reaches, if that's your thing.

Every bit of 5.12. Second that there are many easier 5.12s out there. Jun 22, 2017
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.12b
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.12b
My guide book calls this route 5.11d (2013 edition I think?) Wow, that's a sandbag, I can't think of any 5.12a that I've ever done that was harder than this route, and I can certainly think of quite a few 5.12b's I've done that were easier. Regardless of the rating though, this was an amazing route up some of the most perfect rock I have ever had the pleasure of touching. Sep 7, 2016
TBrumme Brumme
denver, co
 
TBrumme Brumme   denver, co
 
1st bolt definitely needs replacing. It's sticking out about 1/4" and has side-to-side play in the hole. 3rd bold is also loose. Jul 6, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
The 1st and 3rd bolts don't seem to be in the best shape. The first seemed the worst, it was slightly pulled out of the rock. Great route though. Jun 29, 2016
It was a project... Vance White got the FA its "Clean Slate" 12d. mmm The red tape was just a ghetto way of red tagging it.. I Think I had someone else do it... I don't remember Jun 14, 2016
I think that was Ben Sear's route to the left, it was red tagged while he was cleaning and working the route, not sure if it still there or not. Jun 14, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
What's up with the red taped biner on the first bolt? (You can see what I am talking about in the beta photo.) It was still like that today when I walked past. Is there a bad bolt? Still a project? Never taken down after the redpoint? Jul 29, 2014